From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
although we had been almost without food for three days. Our captives
were terribly thin, and these outlying bands of raiders are evidently
leading but a hand-to-mouth existence; and as the Baleka have cut their
boats adrift by wiping out the whole country behind them (in their
wanton madness they even cut down the banana palms), I am afraid the
people of Bugoie will eventually succumb, although hitherto they have
held out. As yet they have only had to repel the attacks of small
bands, the main mass of the Baleka being still occupied in demolishing
the mtama fields of northern Mushari. When the general onslaught
begins, I think they will have to give way before the thousands of
savages rendered desperate by the impossibility of retreat, and those,
too, men of superior courage. Those Baleka that I had the chance of
observing at close quarters were well made and pleasant-featured,
averaging not more than 5 ft. Their possessions--baskets, shields,
knives, etc.--are very crude, and their dress consists of air and an
occasional scrap of hide, human or otherwise. Whether they have a
definite country or not, I cannot say; some natives told me that they
have, many days’ journey west of Kivu, while the majority say that they
lead a nomadic existence like a flight of locusts, eating up just as
effectually whatever they come across. At a rough estimate, there
cannot have been less than 5,000 of them in the countries I passed
through.
The next morning we came on another small encampment, which,
fortunately, had been unable to see our fires, owing to the dense bush,
although we were not half a mile away. To my amazement our guide,
seeing one gentleman apart from the rest and unarmed, rushed in and
speared him. The others turned on me, but were dispersed with a couple
of shots. This was the last we saw of the Baleka, as, in the evening,
we reached the outskirts of Bugoie, but skulls and charred relics for
many miles bore witness to their recent raids. Very glad I was of a
night’s rest, for although the moral and sometimes physical effect of
firearms on these unsophisticated people is very great, still the danger
of being rushed at night, or in the dense forest and long grass, made it
very anxious work; also the smallness of my caravan--twelve carriers
with only two sniders, and such excitable curs at the end of them that I
forbade them to fire--made us a tempting prey for any large number of
natives we might meet; however, this was balanced by the rapidity of our
movements and unexpected appearance, which would have been impossible
with a larger caravan.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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