From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
Our Baleka prisoners were most amusing. Their joint clothing when
captured consisted of one string of beads, half a dozen wire bracelets,
and a human tooth as a pendant to a necklace of elephant hair. They
were very hungry, and quite pleased with their quarters. It was a
terrible sight to see how they tore and devoured half-raw meat, but
apparently they missed the flavour which they had particularly affected,
as they could never satisfy themselves. Because of the quantity of food
they consumed, our boys viewed them with considerable disfavour. We
issued for their use a large block of soap, and insisted on their
bathing in every available stream; after that we presented them with
some blue cloth and a red blanket, draped in which they appeared quite
respectable, although the style of costume did not seem to lend itself
to their figures or type of beauty.
The western side of the valley is covered with luxuriant forest, and the
eastern side consists of rolling grass land till fifteen miles from the
lake, when the country settles down into one vast plain.
The people of Imukubsu appear to be practically independent of the
Kigeri, although they are undoubtedly part of the Ruanda stock.
Here four streams flow down from the east, the most important being the
Fuko. At the outlet of the Fuko the Kako becomes the Rutchuru, and the
district to the east is called Bukoma, and is very sparsely inhabited.
Still further to the east lies the district of Ijomba, which centres
round two rather prominent peaks. Six miles further north there is
again a considerable population, and large plantations of bananas.
The following day we crossed a stream of considerable breadth, filled
with papyrus; the water was very deep, and we had great difficulty in
the crossing of our goats and sheep. Marching through a desolate
country with no population, we arrived at a good stream called the
Gwenda. The bed of this stream is very curious; the country drops
suddenly 100 ft., forming a broad, flat-bottomed valley, down the middle
of which the Gwenda has carved out a deep trough. The valley is so flat
that it cannot be due to erosion, and is probably a recently-dried-up
arm of the lake.
From there we crossed a vast plateau, covered with short grass; and it
was not until three in the afternoon that we reached an insignificant
stream, on the banks of which were a few poverty-stricken villages.
The type of native had changed entirely; they informed us that they were
Wanyabinga, and that the name of their country was Wataka. They refused
cloth or beads, saying that they had no use for such things, their only
garment consisting of well-cured skins.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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