From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
*THE RUTCHURU VALLEY AND THE ALBERT EDWARD LAKE.*
On June 26th we started on our march to the Albert Edward Lake, and
camped that night near Kahanga’s village. Many of the more important
men came and paid their respects to us, but Kahanga himself did not turn
up. We inquired of his Prime Minister for what reason he had not done
so, and were informed that he was ill; but having, as I thought, seen
him, as I passed, looking far from ill, I made further inquiries, and
discovered that he was afraid of our caravan, and imagined that if he
came to our camp we should make him prisoner and demand a big ransom of
ivory. I can only imagine that he had heard of other white men behaving
in this manner. I tried hard to induce him to come, but in vain. As
when I was there before with only a few boys he had been exceedingly
friendly, it is obvious under what disadvantages one labours when
travelling through Africa with a big caravan.
The following day we crossed the Mungawo, and following the ridge of the
spur which runs down to the junction of the Mungawo and the Kako through
the Shoni district, we camped on a bluff overlooking the Kako itself.
The Kako, as the southern portion of the Rutchuru is called, is a large
body of water, many feet deep, and quite unfordable. Its banks are
clothed with dense forests.
The people of Shoni were most friendly, and we purchased a large supply
of beans. At this camp I saw a waterbuck, the first antelope that we
had seen for many weeks.
We crossed the river by a native bridge formed of trunks of trees thrown
across and bound together with fibre. Beneath, the Kako thundered, a
mighty torrent, and the cloud of spray had left a saline deposit on the
rocks, which was much appreciated by our cattle.
The name of the district into which we had entered was Imukubsu. From
here we had a magnificent view of the volcanoes, and having dropped
4,000 ft. we were enabled to see what an imposing mass Mount Eyres is;
its form on this side is an exact facsimile of the Matterhorn from the
Riffelalp.
Here we purchased some of the curious hippo spears that are used by all
the natives on the Albert Edward Lake; they have a large piece of cork
or light wood on the end of the haft which floats the spear if they miss
their aim. We also purchased some medicine for producing rain; it was a
small goat’s horn filled with the congealed blood of chickens.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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