From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
The natives became quite friendly, and brought us large quantities of a
small kind of bean, and helped us to cut out the tusks. Our carriers
came to see the elephant, and forming a ring round it, chanted a song in
its honour, and each man threw a handful of grass on its side to show
his respect, but, of course, would not eat the meat. Curiously enough,
the natives also refused to eat the meat, although they were very poor;
they informed us that they would eat hippo meat, but not elephant, which
seemed to me a very subtle distinction. We cut off a portion of the
trunk and boiled it gently for twelve hours, but did not eat much of it
when it came to table; the meat was excellent, but the two unpleasant
tubes through the middle, and the wrinkled black skin with its short,
stubby bristles, did not give an appetizing, appearance to the _plat_.
However, the youthful cannibals devoured it, although there must have
been at least ten pounds, in the short space of an hour. The two elderly
cannibals disappeared during the night. It was evidently a move on the
part of our boys, who resented the proportion of presents that fell to
the cannibals’ lot.
The reports of the country in front were not encouraging, so we bought
up a considerable quantity of beans; and the following morning marched
across the plain, and arrived near another village, similar to the one
we had left, which was also carefully hidden in the jungle. This village
was elaborately stockaded, and the natives absolutely refused to allow
me to enter; however, I eventually succeeded in obtaining a guide, and
we continued our march till we arrived at a small lagoon, where our
guide promptly left us. Here we saw a considerable number of
topi-hartebeeste and Uganda kob; these, with the exception of one
waterbuck mentioned above, were the only game that we had seen for many
long weeks; and it was a great treat to have a change from the
inevitable goat.
Here the plain opened out to a tremendous width and had the most
desolate appearance, all the short grass being burnt; and the only
relieving features were a few patches of thorn-scrub and an occasional
candelabra euphorbia. Having no guide and no idea of what was before
us, it was rather a risky undertaking to go ahead without reconnoitring;
but retreat was impossible, owing to the scarcity of provisions, and the
quantity of game rendered actual starvation improbable.
The following morning we launched forth, and after a long march, as I
was beginning to get doubtful as to whether we should find water, I
sighted the Rutchuru river, which here swings back towards the east.
There was a considerable quantity of Uganda kob, topi-hartebeeste, and
Chanler’s reedbuck, and on the path we saw several traces of lions,
while the river teemed with hippopotami. The country is very barren,
and there are numerous salt-pans, which at a distance appear like snow.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account