From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
While the tents were being pitched, we went out and quickly secured a
supply of meat. The Manyema, like all tribes that have come under the
influence of the Arabs, refused to eat the meat of any animal that had
not had its throat cut while still alive; they also refuse to eat hippo,
elephant, or pig, but, curiously enough, are not so particular about
rhinoceros.
We deemed it advisable to camp here for a day, while we went out in
different directions to inspect the country, as we could still, by a
forced march, manage to reach food countries if we found it impossible
to proceed.
I went down the river, and six miles north came unexpectedly through a
belt of reeds on to the lake-shore. Where the Rutchuru enters the lake
there is a very extensive swamp, the haunt of thousands of birds
(pelicans, geese, and various storks), and many hippo. Here I found a
very sparse fishing population; their huts were built in the swamp, and
they themselves travelled about in dangerous-looking canoes. They were
very shy, and it was only after repeated efforts that I succeeded in
inducing two men to come and talk; from them I purchased a few fish,
giving them beads in exchange; and I made many inquiries as to the
country that we had to traverse. They informed me that there were no
villages for many days, and that the few villages that existed at some
distance from the lake were reduced to pitiable straits by the drought,
and the raids of some tribe from the east.
Hence it was obviously impossible to proceed without laying in a stock
of provisions; so we shot several antelope and made our men dry the meat
over fires.
I was suffering from slight fever, and consequently Sharp undertook to
return with boys and purchase as many loads as possible of beans.
The fever brought on a very bad foot; I had rubbed all the skin off the
heel with elephant-hunting, and had been walking on it ever since; and
owing to the poisonous influence of the fever, it swelled to a great
size, and was in such an unhealthy condition that when I pushed my
finger into the swelling it left a cavity which did not swell out again
for some minutes. As it was impossible to stop in the country, I had to
make arrangements to be carried, and all the time that I was in camp,
sat with my foot in a basin filled with a strong solution of
permanganate of potash, applying a poultice of Elliman’s Embrocation at
night.
Here the water of the Rutchuru was almost too salt to drink, and we were
not sorry to reach the lake, where, although the water was salt, it was
drinkable.
Sharp shot several fine kob and topi, the horns being equal to anything
recorded in Rowland Ward’s book, _Horns and their Measurement_.
The water at the edge of the lake was very shallow. Two days from the
Rutchuru my leg became so bad that we were compelled to stop; and as the
supply of food was already running short, we sent some of our boys back
to buy a fresh supply.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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