From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
The first day, in the sweet innocence of youth, I set off to round a
headland with my guns and a tin box containing my indispensables on
board, fearing to trust them to a native. All went smoothly at first,
till I had arrived well off the rocks with a slight swell on and no
landing-place near, and then she began slowly to heel over, while water
seemed to be rushing in through the wood itself. After prodigious
efforts I succeeded in running into the rocks, the water being then
within an inch of the gunwale. I saved my guns and box, but smashed the
canoe, and after that turned passenger. It looks so easy when they come
dancing along, each with a native kneeling in the stern and plying a
huge curved-bladed paddle; but it is a very different thing when one is
wedged in oneself; physically incapable of squatting in a kneeling
posture, as a native does, one finds bailing out an impossibility; the
whole of the bottom of the canoe seems to be covered with boots, and the
incurved edges catch the wooden bailing-dish and jerk the contents into
one’s lap.
Although the lake teems with fish, many of large size, the Wakoba make
no attempt to catch them, trusting to the occasional chance of
purchasing from the natives on the other shore or from Kasenyi.
One day I shot a baboon at the natives’ request, a performance, by the
way, that I shall not repeat, nor would I recommend it to any one but
the most hardened villain. A frantic scramble took place for the flesh,
and when I asked them what it tasted like, they "smole a smile."
Amongst the countless troops of monkeys that are for ever coughing and
dancing amongst the rocks and trees, I saw a small family of very
beautiful little fellows with bright fox-red fringes down their sides,
but I could not bring myself to shoot at them after seeing that
unfortunate baboon, although I have never seen them described, or
elsewhere in Africa.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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