From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
At Viboko I was compelled to wait, the shore in front being
impracticable and the heights behind unscaleable, till Mswa sent down
the canoes, which I had requested by numerous envoys. My boys were
badly in need of a rest, the work having been very trying since
Kahanama’s, and the fever from which I was suffering made it equally
acceptable to me. In the afternoon two natives arrived, saying that a
muzungu[#] was coming down to meet me with ten canoes. After inquiries
as to what kind of Askaris he had, etc., etc., I gathered that it must
be a Belgian official, so killed the fatted calf in the guise of a
skinny sheep and sundry osseous frames masquerading as dorkings, and
then plunged for the second time into the turgid flow of Zola’s _Rome_,
to cleanse my French of probable Swahili trespassers. I even exhumed a
tie, and having produced a menu that exhausted all the possible
combinations and permutations of an African larder, awaited anxiously
his arrival, picturing to myself the joys of a little talkee-talkee once
more. A stiff southerly breeze evidently was delaying them, and it was
not till after dark that we heard the wild canoe-song of the flotilla,
which had rounded the point and caught sight of our camp-fires. Giving
a last twirl to my moustache and a nautical hitch to the Poolesque
garment aforesaid, and composing my features to the iron-clad smirk
indispensable to such occasions, I advanced to do the honours, and
grasped the hand of a dirty, greasy little negro clad in, or rather
smeared over with, a prehistoric piece of cloth! Here was my muzungu!
here my gallant Belgian staggering under the gold braid of a hat of that
peculiarly unbecoming shape affected by French guards and German
tourists, and majestically trailing the orthodox 30-franc sword!
Inquiries elicited the fact that the parasitic relic of Manchester above
mentioned established a valid claim to the title of muzungu in these
parts. However, he had brought the canoes, so I readily forgave him,
and next day we arrived at the old Soudanese station, Mswa. Mswa is the
name of the chief, who is a vassal of Tukenda, and Mahagi is the name of
the country itself. He is an intelligent old native, and remembered
seeing that ubiquitous officer, Bt.-Major Vandeleur, D.S.O., when he
crossed from Kibero, and was delighted at the photograph which forms the
frontispiece to his book entitled _Campaigns on the Nile and Niger_.
Here let me recommend travellers to take out photographs of men who have
gone before them; the effect is wonderful on those natives who can grasp
the idea, though, of course, to many natives a picture is merely a piece
of paper. It convinces those who can understand it that you are
speaking the truth--a possibility so utterly foreign to the native mind.
After exchanging presents he retired, promising to bring more boys in
the morning to work the canoes; but in the morning none were
forthcoming, and after waiting some time while Mswa rushed frantically
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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