From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
round the country, shouting to his people, who walked off into the grass
and laughed at him, I concluded that he was either incompetent or trying
to make a fool of me, and, to his consternation, manned the canoes with
my own men and started. As I expected, enough men were immediately
forthcoming, but too late, and I held on my way.
[#] _Muzungu_: white man.
We did not reach Mahagi till after dark. Here the hills again recede
from the lake-shore, leaving an alluvial plain from one to two miles
wide, which is densely populated by Lures, while in the hills there are
numerous villages of Balegga. Tukenda is the big man, whose influence
reaches from south of Mswa to Boki; he has a small herd of cattle and
large flocks of goats, and his people are evidently flourishing and very
friendly. So dense is the population that the natives have been
emigrating down the lake, and have started new villages on the
unoccupied sand-spits. At Boki a grand old tusker came sailing by the
camp, and after a stern chase and much expenditure of powder,
condescended to strike his colours. He was a perfect specimen of the
Toro type above described, standing 11 ft. 1 in. at the shoulder, with a
forefoot of 62 in., and measuring 5 ft. 6 in. round the elbow, while his
tusks were 6 ft. 10 in. and 7 ft 1 in. long, weighing respectively 72
lbs. and 76 lbs. A small patch of forest about two miles by one mile
comes down from the hills to the lake-shore, and as my boys had heard
elephant there when cutting wood, I went for a stroll after the midday
heat of the sun. Never have I seen a more delightful or interesting
scene; countless herds of elephant had trampled down the undergrowth,
leaving vast shady chambers joined in all directions by galleries. Some
of these chambers were fully an acre in extent, and every vestige of
vegetation underfoot had been crushed into a level carpet, upon which it
was a pleasure to walk. As one entered these delightful retreats,
troops and troops of monkeys lined the branches and gazed on us with
fearless curiosity; while two or three hundred of the beautiful
black-and-white colobus monkey performed the most amazing acrobatic
feats overhead. Emerging on the far side I saw a herd of ten elephant.
They were standing in long grass, but fortunately there was a small
ant-hill close by; climbing up this I found them all with ears
widespread advancing in line towards me, and had it not been for the
fortuitous existence of this point of vantage they would have walked
right on top of us, the grass being about 8 ft. high. They presented a
glorious spectacle as they came sailing along, all canvas set (I can
find no other word to express the motion of an elephant in grass), ten
old tuskers, their ivory now and again gleaming white above the grass;
on they came till, when within thirty yards, one turned and gave me a
chance. He dropped to the shot, but quickly recovered; succumbing,
however, after two more. I damaged three more considerably before
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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