From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
I was an object of the greatest curiosity, especially to the ladies of
these communities, who came in large numbers to inspect me (front seats
at bath time being in great request), and who, whether from a ridiculous
sense of modesty or a laudable desire to do honour to the occasion,
donned over and above the national costume of a small piece of string
tied round the waist, a hopelessly inadequate apron of dried grass: a
garment that, from the simplicity of its cut and the small quantity of
material employed in its composition, I should have no hesitation in
classing with the species of female extravagance known, I believe, to
the fair sex as tailor-made. The men, who seem to be of a hopeful
disposition, spend much time in making wicker baskets resembling two
lobster-pots fastened together like a cottage loaf; these they leave in
the river tied to sticks and without bait. I saw many hundreds of these,
and large numbers of natives visiting them, but only one fish, though my
olfactory sense warned me of the vicinity of at least one more. They
have a pretty little myth about buying food from the Balegga for fish,
and as they do not kill their goats and certainly had not been buying
lately, I cannot imagine what they live on; but I do know that in six
hours they removed every scrap of five large bull elephant, hides,
bones, and all; a small trifle of about twenty tons; so conclude they
live a kind of boa-constrictor’s existence. Many of the young men
aggravate the natural ugliness of their faces by inserting pieces of
glass about 5 in. long in their under-lip. One and all carry small
bows, with reed arrows tipped with long thin spikes of iron neither
barbed nor feathered. Most of the chiefs and elders are obviously of
different race, some having the Galla features more or less pronounced.
Here at the north end of the lake one emerges quite suddenly from the
"Bantu" peoples to the Nilotic, and the line of division is wonderfully
sharply defined. There are numbers of reedbuck and nsunu, and in the
bush a small very red oribi of which I failed to procure a specimen. I
also saw a herd of hartebeeste, and shot a cow; they closely resembled
the Lichtenstein, though the rump was not so white, and the horns lie
closer together and stand more erect than those of Lichtenstein. Mr.
Cape tells me that Jackson’s hartebeeste, which it appears to resemble
in other respects, is a considerably larger beast; so that it is to be
hoped that he will be able to take a skull and hide home for
identification.
*CHAPTER XVIII.*
*WADELAI TO KERO.*
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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