From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
I arrived at Wadelai on October 1st, and found Lieut. Cape, R.A., in
command; the boma is built on a small hill overlooking the miniature
lake, and is slightly south of Emin’s old site. Here, as elsewhere, the
drought had been very serious, and the country consequently looked bare
and uninviting. After Rhodesia, B.C.A., and Northern Rhodesia, it was
difficult to believe that this land of administrative chaos had been
occupied for six years. The mail arrived three weeks overdue, and some
loads which had or ought to have been already a month on the road, were
three weeks afterwards still untraceable, although the whole distance is
only a fortnight’s march, while station loads sent off yet three weeks
earlier were still unheard of. Nowhere has the Government made any
effort to introduce even bananas, much less fruit-trees, vegetables,
wheat, or rice; no system of mail service has been organized, and no
regulations as to import, duties, etc., had been issued. At Toro I asked
for information about the transit dues, naturally objecting to pay the
ordinary export duty of 15 per cent. on ivory which I had obtained
outside the Protectorate. My request was ignored, and at Wadelai I was
met by a demand for duties based on regulations apparently issued for
our benefit, but by an error of judgment bearing a date subsequent to
our crossing the frontier. From this I can only gather, either that the
possibility of the country becoming a trade-route (one of the _raisons
d’être_, I presume, of the railway) had never been entertained, or that
it was part of the penny-wise, pound-foolish policy that robs officials
of their hunting trophies, and maintains, at the preposterous figure of
14 rupees 8 annas a month, a large number of Waganda boatmen on the
Nile, where they die like flies of dysentery brought on by unsuitable
food. The country is quite unsuited to these Waganda, who are all
banana-eaters, millet being the staple food; and this, coupled with the
great difference in altitude, is killing them by dozens, while the banks
of the Nile itself are lined with capable canoemen, who could be engaged
at 3s. a month; 14 r. 8 a. a month to raw natives, many of whom are mere
boys, is sufficient in itself to damn any country’s future which will be
dependent on its agriculture. Where would B.C.A. be with wages for raw
labour at £1 a month? It is an uphill fight now at 3s. rate; 8 r. a
load from Kampala to Fajao, a fourteen days’ march, what produce will
bear transport rates like this? Similarly the pay of the Soudanese is
absurd; they actually do not know what to do with their money; and the
only result of the late rise in their pay is that they no longer
cultivate on their own account, but buy everything at exorbitant rates
from the natives. They would have been equally contented and equally
well off with half the sum, the effect of the other half being increased
drunkenness and a general rise in the price of native produce. The
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account