From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
Government should have its own plantations or make allotments to the
station natives, instead of the present system of money rations, as it
will be very difficult to induce the natives to work while they can sell
enough produce at exorbitant rates to obtain their few luxuries, and in
the near future to pay their hut-tax. Another gross piece of folly was
the introduction of the rupee instead of the English currency.
It was very pleasant to find some one to talk to again; in six weeks one
finds out what a terribly uninteresting fellow one is. After a rest of
three or four days spent in waiting for the overdue mails and the
arrival of the Waganda canoe fiasco, Lieutenant Cape took me out to see
the Shuli country and for a general trot round, the _pièce de
résistance_ to be an old bull giraffe that Sheikh Ali, the local
potentate, reported to be in his neighbourhood. My host was fortunate
enough to be able to leave the station for a few days, though we were
hampered in our movements by his having to keep within a day’s march.
This, I believe, was the second time he had succeeded in getting away
for a day or two in his year’s residence. The really important work of
inspecting the country and winning the confidence of the natives had to
give way to the soldierly occupation of sorting mails, and retailing
beads and yards of cloth, which could be equally well done by an Indian
at 10 or 15 r. a month. This playing at shop is, as far as I could
judge, the sole _raison d’être_ of these stations, and perhaps a desire
on the part of the Government to show the unfortunate officer who has
been inveigled into this Downing Street-warranted paradise what an
insignificant thing he and his wants (at home we should say necessaries
of life) are compared with a Dinka’s boots or a Baluchi’s ginger. The
whole transport of the Protectorate has been paralyzed to supply a
miserable mob of Baluchis with rations which their white officers would
gladly have bought at their weight in gold, and who have been, are, and
will be utterly useless in the country. Heaven knows what they have
cost, and Heaven, I presume, knows why they were brought, for I am sure
no one else does. There was not one single pound of flour in any
station that I passed through, and no white man had been able to obtain
a load of the common necessaries of life for months, because what little
transport there was had been monopolized to hurry through the Soudanese
belts, blankets, comic opera uniforms, and boots, which they take off
and give to their boys to carry when they walk. One gallant officer
amused me much by telling me that the one touch of civilization of the
past year had been a ginger-pudding made from a surplus ounce of the
Indians’ rations.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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