From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
Hoping to see something of the other lioness or the lion I returned to
the same place next day, and after examining the neighbourhood of the
grass, pushed on still farther to the centre of the swamp. In this
swamp the river spreads out into a vast network of channels, with a
small central lagoon. Owing to the dryness of the season, it was
possible to cross most of the channels, which were then merely
mud-troughs, and to reach the lagoon, which was about four hundred yards
wide. Here I witnessed a most extraordinary sight. About fifty hippo
were lying about in the water, and on the banks. As the water was not
in most parts deep enough to cover them, they presented the appearance
of so many huge seals basking in the sun. They climbed in and out,
strolled about, rolled in, splashing, shouting, blowing, and entirely
ignoring my presence. After watching them for some time, I sent my boys
to the far end to drive them past. The boys yelled and threw stones at
them. Suddenly the hippo took alarm and rushed _en masse_ for the
narrow channel of the waterway. Down this they swarmed, kicking the
water 30 ft. in the air, throwing their heads back, roaring, thundering,
and crashing along, while I stood on the bank at twenty yards and took
photographs, all of which unfortunately failed.
[Illustration: It was a gruesome Sight.]
The banks of every channel and mud-hole were lined with huge yellow
masses of crocodiles; thousands and thousands of wildfowl (mainly
Egyptian and spur-wing geese), which were nesting in the hippo holes,
kept up a ceaseless din; herds and herds of game appeared as though
dancing in the mirage, and the whole scene was one to delight the heart
of a lover of nature. There indeed one felt one was far from the madding
crowd.
During the night we were awakened by the most terrific yells, and found
that some crocodiles had gone into the boys’ quarters. Fortunately they
contented themselves with removing about two hundredweight of meat.
As the lions appeared to have left the country, we moved up the river to
our original camp for a week to give the plain a rest, and bagged an
eland. Sharp secured a good lioness in the lion donga.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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