From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
Six hours’ paddling brought us to Kero, the frontier station of the
Congo Free State, on the 5-½° parallel, which is their temporary limit
as arranged by treaty with the French. The station is a marvellous
example of energy, although only in existence for one year. A large and
well-built brick house for the inspector has been completed, and the
majority of the whites, to the number of about ten, are housed in
baked-brick cottages. There are several large whale-boats, and more in
course of erection. At one time there were a thousand Askaris, a number
which has been reduced since the reconnaissance of Commandant Henry
towards the north, which ascertained that the Dervishes had retreated
_via_ Rumbek and Mashra er Rek towards Kordofan. The high bank on which
the station stands being the promontory at a sharp bend of the river, is
being rapidly eaten away by the stream, and the water-edge is now thirty
yards further back than a year ago. This shows to what an extent and
with what marvellous rapidity the Nile changes its course. The quantity
of fish is prodigious, and an Anzande fisherman keeps the station daily
supplied with fish of the best quality. Some attain to a weight of 200
lbs., and several enormous specimens have been obtained by dynamite
explosions which are the evening amusement. The Anzande method is very
ingenious. The fisherman selects a shallow spot, and with a clever
knack throws a funnel-shaped net weighted round the rim, and attached by
the apex to a cord, by means of which he feels if any fish have been
covered; he then slowly draws in, and the weights, thus closing
together, form a bag with the fish struggling in the meshes. Several
times I saw him take a dozen large fish at a time, and half an hour’s
work in almost the same spot sufficed to provide fish for all the white
men, and many to spare. The food question is one of considerable
difficulty, grain being only obtainable at a distance of several days,
which necessitates the continued absence of half the garrison. However,
the natives managed to eke out their daily ration of one small cup of
red millet with fish, an occasional hippo or antelope, and a kind of
plum which grows in profusion in the district; it has a hard outer
shell, then one-tenth of an inch of sweet fibre which leaves an
after-taste of quinine, and finally a hard stone containing a kernel
that cooked tastes like a mixture of prussic acid and quintessence of
quinine; however, the natives devour them with avidity, and also extract
an oil which I am told is quite tasteless--a fact that, after tasting
one of the kernels, I am prepared to take on trust. There is also a
small berry tasting like an old apple, from which they make a form of
bread, which at first sight I pardonably mistook for clay. There was
plenty of snap about the Congo State soldiers, who paraded daily with
drums and bugles, and it was easy to see by the general efficiency and
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account