From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
Anyhow it is significant that all the natives on the Congo Free State
side are retiring further and further inland, while the natives on the
British side are rapidly resettling on the river-bank, from which they
were driven by the Dervishes. Owing to the difficulty that the Belgians
find in obtaining supplies, the ration per man is one small cup of
millet a day; out of this he has probably to feed a slave boy, one or
two wives, and Heaven knows how many children. Yet they all look sleek
and fat. How do they manage it? The conclusion is obvious. When I was
hunting with Captain Dugmore, the local natives on our side dare not go
alone into the bush, as they said that they would be caught and eaten.
Another great source of weakness is the Belgian method of treating their
natives. They are too familiar with them, and then, when, as the
inevitable result, the natives become impertinent, brutally severe. In
treating natives it is indispensable to emphasize the distinction
between black and white, yet at the same time to let the native see that
you respect him in his own line, but take your own absolute superiority
for granted. Hair-splitting justice is a _sine qua non_; and, I
believe, herein lies our success with inferior peoples; it is the one
thing that they can understand, and which inspires more respect than
anything else.
On the third day we met the first Dinkas, miserable, amphibious objects,
eking out a precarious existence on a semi-submerged island; here we
camped, in a visible--nay, tangible--atmosphere of rotting fish,
mud-caked niggers, marabouts, and kites; and at sunset, with a
long-drawn expectant howl the mosquitoes arrived: little ones, big ones,
black ones, mottled ones, a whirling, wailing fog of miniature vampires,
that kept up the mournful dirge till the cold hour before sunrise, when
with a sigh of relief we pushed off in our boat, and after five hours’
paddling reached Bohr, which lies on the right bank at a sudden bend of
the river. The original zaribas of the Dervishes and the more
substantial earthworks thrown up when they heard of the occupation of
Kero are already falling to pieces, and the elephant now takes his
midday siesta midst the grinning skulls and calcined bones that are
scattered about, all equally regardless of the wanton brutality of the
near past. The past fades fast in Africa; yet another year, and the
cotton-bush will have hid the mouldering relics of the earthworks, and
the white ant will have seen the last grin of those gruesome jaws.
The fort of the Dervishes was of very considerable extent; about five
hundred yards by six hundred yards, the long side lying on the river.
There are still signs of a primitive effort at drainage, and the
enormous quantity of cotton shrubs are a proof of the suitability of the
soil to this product could it be brought within touch of a market.
There are also unlimited numbers of gum-trees and tamarinds.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account