From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
We had a few dynamite cartridges with us, and we obtained a good supply
of fish by a couple of explosions. Amongst the numerous kinds that
floated up to the surface was a curious fish similar to the species that
I have mentioned as having been brought to me from the Ruo river near
Chiromo. It was a long, eel-like fish, with the eyes covered by skin,
the dorsal fin running down to and joining the diminutive tail. The
snout was long and tubular, and the flesh lay in long, thin, delicate
flakes like the flesh of the skate. Another species had the head and
fore-part of the body encased in an adamantine shield armed with
dangerous spikes on the back and by the pectoral fins. Its tail was
shaped like the tail of a shark, which it resembles in general form,
although the mouth was not underneath as with the shark’s. A third
species, very common all over this section of the Nile, much prized, and
justly so, for the richness of its flesh, is covered with
disproportionately enormous scales of circular form; its general form
approximates to that of a red mullet. The commonest kind was the
gorgeous tiger-fish, which is one of the most beautiful fish that swim.
There are large numbers of natives in the vicinity, and when we had at
length convinced them of our pacific intentions, they brought milk and
quantities of fish and fowls. It appears that such was the anxiety of
the Dervishes in departing that the Dinkas succeeded in relieving them
of their cattle. As a protection against mosquitoes the natives smother
themselves in wood-ash, and the long lines of tall, gaunt, grey spectres
slowly threading their way into the bush, each with a bright,
broad-bladed spear, and a small gourd of milk or a decaying fish,
present a very curious spectacle. Having stopped for a day to buy
supplies, amongst which was a goat, rather less meaty than my hand,
whose two hind legs combined would have had no chance against an English
mutton-chop, we once more launched forth into the weary waste. We
camped successively on a mud-bank tenanted by a few forlorn natives,
from whom we obtained a small supply of grain at an exorbitant rate, and
on a network of sun-dried hippo-holes whose authors resented our
intrusion all night, expressing their disapproval by that strange
variety of coughs, bellows, grunts, squeals, and roars peculiar to that
misshapen pachyderm. Here we fired the 20 ft. reeds to modify the
mosquito plague. They were very dry except at the base, and the
terrific sheet of flame, capped by a vast cloud of smoke catching the
red lights from the fire, afforded a picture of indescribable grandeur.
It thundered away like a mighty sea of molten iron, licking up the
country as it sped eastward; and we "smiled loud out" to think of the
billions of mosquitoes that were perishing in its line; and the funny
old hippo roared in astonishment, blinking their pink eyes at the
alarming spectacle.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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