From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
On the third day, having seen throughout the whole voyage from Bohr one
tree at a distance of several miles, we were startled during lunch by
the cry of "Steamer!" and rounding a bend in the river we saw the
British steam-tub labouring up-stream with a bunch of ribbons that had
once been a Jack flying at her stern. She was soon alongside, and we
found on board Mr. Mulders, a naturalized American Dutchman, who built
the Belgian steamer, in command, and two Belgians, one of whom was
confined to his bed by a severe attack of sciatica which necessitated
his return to Kero. In answer to our eager inquiries we learnt that
they had spent the three months in the sudd, making prodigious efforts
to cut a channel, and that eventually, after living waist-deep in water,
sleeping on water, eating strange birds and being eaten by mosquitoes,
steaming for miles in search of a stick or grain, they had abandoned
their steamer, leaving her in charge of a few Askaris, and the whole
party, including the French officer from Shambeh, who daringly followed
them in a flotilla of native canoes, had started in the boats with the
idea of dragging them by main force over the vegetation. The British
boat was sent back with the sick men for supplies and mails, and with
orders to return and patrol the vicinity of the obstructions at
intervals of a week, blowing her whistle and endeavouring to find out
whether the party would return, and, if no news had been obtained by the
middle of March, to return with the Belgian steamer to Kero.
I consider this successful attempt of Capt. Gage of the 7th Dragoon
Guards, and Dr. Milne, as one of the most daring feats ever accomplished
in the history of African travel. They suffered indescribable hardships
for nearly four months, during all which time they hardly slept one
night on land; but were compelled to see the long hours of darkness
through, night after night, cramped up in a small boat or lying on the
vegetation, tormented by myriads of mosquitoes, and with very little
more substantial than native porridge to keep their spirits up. Day
after day, nothing but that vast expanse of weed of a hopelessness
beyond civilized conception; day after day dragging their boats through
and over stinking bogs and spongy masses of weed tenanted by a thousand
crocodiles--not knowing where they were, nor, in characteristic British
fashion, caring, yet ever keeping their face forward, strong in the
knowledge that perseverance must succeed. Their food ran short, and to
return was impossible. Had they not come unexpectedly upon Major
Peake’s steamers they would probably all have perished. Very few people
can ever have any conception of the magnitude and apparent hopelessness
of their task. The terror of those stupendous wastes! They have eaten
like rust into my very heart, as they must do with all those who launch
forth into their seemingly unending desolation.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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