From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North — John Shaqi
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
The first morning after losing a splendid eland, in company with Mahony,
I met a fretful porcupine taking his morning constitutional. We waited
till he walked within five yards and then gave chase. For a time the
pace was hot, till I headed him off, and grabbed him, by the long hair
on his neck, which promptly gave way (I mean the hair). I was again
closing on him, when he suddenly backed, driving one quill through my
boot, 1-½ in. through my little toe, and a dozen others into my leg, one
through the tendon. One of my boys was badly mangled in a similar
manner, and it was only after giving the fretful one a playful tap on
the skull that we made him fast. I regret to say that two days
afterwards he died.
As the officials of a so-called Gorongoza Development Co., with its
headquarters on the Dingi-Dingi, had seized our boys on their way to
Fontesvilla with trophies, and ill-used them, we marched to the Pungwe,
where I branched off to arrange matters, the others following the river
towards Sarmento. I found seven or eight yellow-visaged creatures, a
Portuguese-French mixture, who in three years had disposed of a capital
of, I believe, some hundreds of thousands of francs, with the stupendous
result of an asset comprising about fifty acres of castor oil (one of
the most ineradicable weeds of the country). The Governor, who was very
polite, told me that he was entitled to levy shooting licences, and
after some talk we closed the matter with a payment of £10, which I
should advise the shareholders of the Gorongoza Development Co. to keep
an eye on, as it is the only return they are ever likely to see. He
also told me that he should like a lion hunt, and had even sat up by his
fowl-house for that purpose. Not long after we met him, vinously
inclined, in Beira--the cheque had been cashed. On the Pungwe we
watched some native blacksmiths at work. Several of their tools were
very ingenious.
Again we marched north, and striking the Pungwe by Tiga’s Kraal, crossed
the island and the Dingi-Dingi, and eventually camped at the junction of
a broad sandy river with the Urema. Sharp bagged a good buffalo with a
42-inch head the first night; and the following morning we found that a
male lion had visited the carcase, but retired before our arrival. We
tossed up as to who should sit up that night, and I was unlucky enough
to win; unlucky, in that I spent one of the most awful nights it has
ever been my lot to endure. Having built a small platform, 6 ft. from
the ground, I repaired thither with a thick blanket at sunset. Soon
about thirty hyænas appeared, and continued fighting, snarling, and
uttering diabolical yells all night; while battalions of mosquitoes
refreshed themselves at my expense, biting my knees, even through a
camel’s-hair blanket and flannel trousers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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