From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North — John Shaqi
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
On our return to Beira we embarked on the _Peters_ for Chinde, finding
as fellow-passengers the Congo Telegraph Expedition under Mr. Mohun--six
white men, one hundred Zanzibaris, thirty donkeys, and a few cows, etc.
To our horror, on disembarking the next day, we found that all our heavy
luggage, tents, etc., had been put on the wrong boat at Beira, and were
on their way to Delagoa Bay. As the telegraph line is generally in a
state of collapse, owing to the white ants eating the posts, and to
vagaries on the part of the Portuguese or natives, it took some days to
inform the agent.
Chinde offers no attractions except to those who are waiting for a
home-going boat, so we made up our minds to go on to Chiromo, and have a
little shooting till our things turned up, and we could proceed on our
journey.
The African Lakes Corporation, to whom we had consigned a splendid
full-plate camera, denied any knowledge of it. We afterwards found that
it had passed through their hands, and had been stowed on a sunny and
rain-swept verandah for three months, with a result that may be
imagined. They had also inadvertently overlooked thirty of our cases of
provisions, which we found at the last moment in their store.
Having borrowed a tent from Mr. Mohun, and being tired of sardines as a
staple article of diet, we made a start up-river, only to find ourselves
worse off afloat than we had been ashore, the Company we had the
misfortune to travel by having apparently realized how to provide the
minimum of comfort with the maximum of charge.
On each side of the steamer a barge was made fast, so progress was not
rapid. It was the dry season. The river was very low, and intervals of
rest on sandbanks were of frequent occurrence. The banks being very
high, one very rarely saw the neighbouring country. No game was ever to
be seen, while on the broad river only an occasional native canoe or a
gunboat, bustling down-stream, broke the monotony.
Every night the boat tied up to lay in a supply of wood, sometimes near
a native village, and occasionally near a sugar plantation; at the
latter we were generally given some green vegetables, which were a great
boon.
The water is pumped up from the river and distributed by channels over
the cane-swamps, and in the time to come, as more of the river-banks are
taken up by these Sugar Concessions, this drain on the water will make a
considerable difference to navigation in the dry season.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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