From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
The country was exceedingly dry and burnt up: consequently the little
game that remained in the vicinity was concentrated near the water.
After some hard days’ work under an impossible sun, I shot a
klipspringer, which, curiously enough, was down in the flat country, and
fully twenty miles from the nearest hills. The bristly hairs reminded
me of a hedgehog, and came out in great quantities during the process of
skinning. These antelopes are exceedingly heavy in the hind quarters,
short in the legs, and have the most delicate feet imaginable. We both
searched high and low for koodoo, which were reported to be plentiful,
but without effect, though I found a couple of worm-eaten heads lying in
the bush; and for some days we had no luck with sable, although there
was much fresh spoor; but eventually I succeeded in bagging a fair bull.
No antelope looks grander than an old bull sable, standing like a statue
under some tree, his mighty horns sweeping far back over his shoulders.
The bristling mane gives a massive appearance to his shoulders; there is
something suggestive of the goat about him, both in his lines and
carriage: a giant ibex!
One evening some natives came to camp with a wonderful catch of fish,
amongst which I noticed four different species. One was a long,
eel-shaped fish with a curious bottle snout, and very small teeth. The
eye, entirely covered with skin, was almost invisible. There is a
closely allied fish in the Nile. Another one resembled a bream with
very large fins. A third resembled a carp with enormous scales, and was
very poor eating. While the fourth, which I have never seen elsewhere,
and which was unknown to Mr. MacDonald, who is a keen naturalist,
resembled a heavily-built carp with large scales and prominent fins, and
was of a beautiful green colour.
Sharp having decided to go to the north of Nyassa to arrange transport
across the plateau, then returned to Chiromo, and I quickly followed.
But a few days later I again crossed into Portuguese territory, and
marched east along the telegraph line to M’Serrire on the Liadzi, a
tributary of the Shiré.
The following morning, quietly strolling through some dense bush, I saw
two grand bull sable browsing on the tender shoots of a massive creeper.
I fired at the better of the two, and they both galloped away. It was
easy to follow their spoor in the soft, peaty soil, and a quarter of a
mile away I came on him lying dead. The shot had passed through both
lungs. In the evening, when tubbing, I was beset by bees who come in
clouds for the moisture, and after an exciting and one-sided conflict I
hurriedly withdrew, dashed in a state of nudity through the astonished
village, and sought refuge in a hut. The stings induced a severe fever,
and the next two days were spent in bed and indignant meditation.
Hearing that some old Cambridge friends of mine had arrived in Chiromo,
I marched in and spent a jovial evening with MacDonald, who was
entertaining them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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