From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
However, I will not weary the reader with what he has had dinned into
his ears for the last four years, by describing Rhodesia; nor will I
dilate on how, at Lisbon, through a Bucellas-induced haze, I noticed
that all the men had a patch in their trousers, all the women were ugly,
all the food was dirty, and all the friendly-disposed were thieves, nor
will I hurt the feelings of the Deutsch Ost Afrika Cie. by telling how
badly managed their boats are; how they are perambulating beershops,
disguised as liners; how conducive to sleep is a ten-strong brass band
at five yards, seized with religious enthusiasm at 7 a.m. on Sunday
morning--all these I will pass over, knowing that a _Cicero redivivus_
alone could do justice to the theme.
Beyond this, suffice it to say, that on February 28th of the year of our
Lord 1898, Arthur Henry Sharp and Ewart Scott Grogan, in company of
sundry German officers and beer enthusiasts, took part in the usual
D.O.A.’s Liner manoeuvre of violently charging a sandbank in the bay of
Beira on a flood-tide, to the ear-smashing accompaniment of the German
National Anthem. In the intervals of waiting to be floated, and finding
out how many of our loads had been lost, we amused ourselves by catching
sharks, which swarmed round the stern of the vessel. Beira, as every
one knows, is mainly composed of galvanized iron, sun-baked sand,
drinks, and Portuguese ruffians, and is inhabited by a mixed society of
railway employés, excellent fellows, Ohio wags, and German Jews. The
Government consists of a triumvirate composed of a "king," who also at
odd times imports railways, the British Consul, and the _Beira Post_,
and sundry minor Portuguese officials, who provide entertainment for the
town, such as volley-firing down the main streets, dredging operations
in the lagoon at the back of the town, bugle-blowing, etc., etc. The
dredging operations and the subsequent depositing of the mud on the
highways were undertaken, I believe, in a friendly spirit of rivalry as
to the death-rate with Fontesvilla (a salubrious riverside resort about
thirty miles inland); a consequent rise to thirty in one day established
a record that, I believe, is still unbeaten. There was a Portuguese
corvette in the bay, and I had the pleasure of dining on board; the
doctor, a most charming specimen of the Portuguese gentleman (and a
Portuguese gentleman is a gentleman), helped me to pass my things
through the Custom House, and those who know Beira will understand what
that means. At Beira I met many old friends, amongst them the
ever-green Mr. Lawley, indefatigable as of yore, and was surprised to
see the immense strides that the town had made in fourteen months. If
it is not washed away some day, it should become second only in
importance to Delagoa Bay. Before starting north, we determined to have
a few months’ shooting, and with this end in view took train to Umtali
with the necessary kit. The new site of Umtali township is a more
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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