From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
The heat and continual wetting now began to tell on the fever which we
had not been able to shake off, so we hired two big canoes, and putting
our deck-chairs in the largest, over which we rigged up an awning, we
proceeded by water while our boys plodded through the shingle. On
reaching the halting-place after our first day’s canoeing, we were
horrified to find that our ten Askaris and the cook had bolted, leaving
their rifles and bayonets on the path. Though I was bad with fever I
got a fresh crew for the big canoe, and made all haste back to our last
night’s camp. Nothing was to be seen or heard of the fugitives, and
though I offered the Sultani (chief) of the village heavy rewards for
each captive, we never heard any more of them, but trust that they did
not escape their deserts when they reached Ujiji, if the natives on the
way let them go free, which is more than doubtful. I had left Sharp to
try his ’prentice hand at cooking, and returning wet through, very tired
and full of fever, found his attempt at soup had ended in a few bones
and a blob of fat at the bottom of the pan! The heat was intense, never
a breath of air, and no shade, while the rays of the burning sun were
refracted from the face of the water. At every camp one or more of the
neighbouring chiefs came to pay his respects, bringing with him a
present, according to his standing, of pombe, native beer, bananas,
three or four fowls, and in the case of a big "swell," two or three
goats or sheep. Each chief was followed by as large a retinue as he
could gather, and most of them were dressed in semi-Arab fashion--a
long, white shirt or "kanzu," a coloured cloth, and a turban or white
head-dress. The natives had many knives of local manufacture, the
sheaths of which were ornamented with well-carved patterns, while their
spears were very thin and light, and often adorned with brass and copper
wire. Of course we had to make return presents of cloth and beads to an
equal value. Eggs were rather hard to obtain, and it was still more
difficult to make the natives believe that we did not want them for
electioneering purposes. My fever was now so bad that I had to depute
my baking to Sharp, who was becoming quite a passable cook under my
tuition, and retire to bed as soon as I could get my tent pitched. To
add to our enjoyment Sharp got a sunstroke and a dose of fever, and we
were consequently reduced to the most pitiable plight. My temperature
went up to 106.9, and left me too weak to move, while Sharp, ill as he
was, made superhuman efforts to look after me. At last, after several
days of intolerable misery, we eventually arrived at Usambara, where the
German official, Lieutenant von Gravert, took us in hand. Under his
care we recovered slightly.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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