From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
Three fiords, several miles in length, necessitated a wide detour. The
scenery was superb: a lacework of bays, lochs, and inlets with endless
choppy waves of hills sweeping away to the great purple surf of the
distant ranges; islets galore, and the vast rugged mass of the island of
Kwijwi as a background.
For several days we had much trouble in allaying the fears of the
natives; terrible accounts had preceded us, and the entire population
fled to the hills on our approach. The fact of our carriers being
Manyema, a name of terror throughout Central Africa, was not reassuring
to the poor creatures, whose only knowledge of Manyema had been gathered
from the Congo Free State soldiers, who for a time had been posted on
Kivu, and from reports of the atrocities committed by the revolted
troops during the past five years. Accounts also of the cannibals who
were battering at the gates of Bugoie must have reached them from their
northern kinsfolk. Black masses of natives in a silvery sea of glinting
spearheads watched us from every hill-top. Fortunately we had several
days’ food for our men, and when the natives saw that we passed through
without touching even a bunch of bananas, they were reassured, and a few
were eventually induced to approach and talk. We caught two of our men
stealing, and inflicted condign punishment before a small body of
natives who were in camp, explaining the circumstances, and telling
them, in case of a repetition of the offence, to come and lay a
complaint. But it would be easier to stop a monkey from scratching than
a Manyema from stealing; and as the state of unrest of the native
population was a grave danger, and petty thefts would probably have
precipitated an attack, which we were ill prepared to repulse, we
confined all our boys to camp, made water-carrying for the whole camp a
fatigue-duty, and established a market where the natives might sell
their produce under our personal supervision. I explained the
expediency of our action, and told them that there were some such
abandoned ruffians amongst them that they must all suffer for the
misdeeds of the miscreants. They appeared satisfied, but as we were
sitting down to lunch, I noticed an unusual stir in the lines. On going
out I found that they were all packing up their belongings and preparing
to depart; about thirty were already moving off. It was obviously an
attempt to bluff us, as the experience of the boys who ran away at
Tanganyika had taught them that it would be impossible to avoid
detection even if they succeeded in passing through Ngenzi’s country,
which they knew would be impossible in view of the then state of the
natives. It was a critical moment. If the camp broke up, the entire
expedition would be inevitably massacred by the Ruanda. I took my rifle
and dashed off in pursuit, accompanied by my two Watonga; while Sharp,
revolver in one hand and rifle in the other, threatened to shoot the
first man who moved.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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