From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
The Germans, who have a favourable opinion of the possibilities of the
Ruanda country, are talking of sending emigrants there. The soil is
very rich, but the country is so inaccessible that I fail to see how
they could be self-supporting--a desirable condition for emigrants--or
how they could cultivate anything for export that would bear the cost of
transport.
Amongst the natives who brought produce for sale were two pigmies; they
were most curious little fellows, and appeared to be immensely powerful.
I fancy they were not quite pure-bred dwarfs, or else they had been
enslaved when young, as they had none of the shyness so characteristic
of this singular little people, and appeared to be living with the local
natives.
To the south-east the enclosing line of hills culminates in four large
peaks of 8,000 to 9,000 ft. All four are conspicuous landmarks for many
miles.
A favourite device of the Manyema carriers, when in a country of
thieves, is to conceal a load of cloth during the night; in the morning
they arrive in great distress, and say that a load has been stolen;
nothing can be done; the unsuspecting traveller abuses the natives, the
land, and other things, and the wily Manyema annexes the lost load on
his return home. To obviate this, we informed them that every man in
future would be held responsible for his own load, and that he would
have to make good, out of his pay, any loss or damage. This was doubly
necessary, as Swahilis and Manyema generally contrive to find a boy or
starveling who will carry their load for a consideration. Apropos of
this point, I find the following in my diary: "Talk about Charles
Kingsley’s description of sweating as a result of civilization! Here we
have porters hiring natives who hire others to the fourth degree, each
walking along like a gentleman and pocketing his proportion. There is
nothing new in this world."
The difficulty of preventing our Manyema ruffians from swindling the
natives was almost insuperable. After the Ngenzi fracas, I discovered
that they were making capital out of our action to extort things from
the natives; so I insisted that for a time every transaction should be
performed before me. If a carrier wished to buy a bunch of bananas from
a native, he brought the native with the bananas to my tent, and they
bargained, and the price was paid in my presence.
One of the blackest of our villains promptly sent his small boy out into
a neighbouring plantation, whence he issued in the scanty garb of a
local native with a bunch of bananas. The villain, the boy, and the
bananas appeared before me, and they solemnly performed the bargaining
and payment. But I had been waiting for that villain, and without
appearing to do so, watched the issue. They all repaired to their tent,
and the boy resumed his garments, when they fell to on what they fondly
believed was a cheap feed--a belief which a ceaseless succession of
fatigue-duties soon dispelled.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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