From the Indus to the Tigris : $b A narrative of a journey through the countries of Balochistan, Afghanistan, Khorassan and Iran, in 1872, together with a synoptical grammar and vocabulary of the Brahoe language, and a record of the meteorological observations and altitudes on the march from the Indus to the TigrisBellew, H. W. (Henry Walter)
History
From the Indus to the Tigris : $b A narrative of a journey through the countries of Balochistan, Afghanistan, Khorassan and Iran, in 1872, together with a synoptical grammar and vocabulary of the Brahoe language, and a record of the meteorological observations and altitudes on the march from the Indus to the Tigris
Bellew, H. W. (Henry Walter)
Afghanistan -- Description and travel; Balochistan (Pakistan) -- Description and travel; Bellew, H. W. (Henry Walter), 1834-1892; Brahui language; Iran -- Description and travel; Khurasan (Iran) -- Description and travel
This is a collection of four villages close to each other, the residence
of the members of the Iltáfzai family, whose head is the ruling Khán
of Calát. They are surrounded by stately trees and productive gardens,
watered by a brisk stream from a spring at Pír Chhatta. Some of the
houses here appear very neat and comfortable residences. Altogether the
place wears an air of prosperity, and is out-and-out the most picturesque
and flourishing place we have seen since we left Jacobabad. Kotra is
the _entrepôt_ of the trade between Balochistan (Calát and Makrán) and
Shikárpúr.
We arrived at Kotra just as the sun had set, and our baggage was yet
far behind. After selecting a site for our camp, and waiting some time
for its arrival, misgivings crept over us as to our evening meal, for
it was already eight o’clock, and no signs of our baggage being near at
hand were visible, and unpleasant suspicions of having to go supperless
to bed forced themselves on our mind. All length I hinted to our
companion Pír Ján—who, by the way, proved a very inefficient and indolent
cicerone—that, in the event of our servants not coming up in time, he
might be able to get us something to eat from the village before it
became too late. He took the hint, and, after some delay, in the interim
of which our camp arrived, at nearly nine o’clock, his messenger returned
from the village with a bowl of mutton, stewed in its own broth, and some
bannocks, which he said had been sent from Mír Khyr Muhammad’s house,
with that Iltáfzai chiefs compliments, and excuses for not being able to
see us this evening, a pleasure which he hoped to enjoy in the morning.
We forthwith set to work with our fingers on the mutton, and ladled up
the broth with successive spoons formed of shreds of bannock, which went
the same way as their contents, until the fast “setting” grease of the
cooling mess suddenly persuaded us that we had sufficiently taken off the
keen edge of our appetites, and we gladly turned from the coarse bowl and
soiled rag on which it stood. Though grateful for the entertainment, I
must say I was disappointed in this experience of Baloch hospitality. Any
Afghan peasant would have done the honours not only with better grace and
substance, but spontaneously.
Whilst our tents were being pitched in the dim light of approaching
night, a couple of rampant _yábús_, or baggage ponies, not satisfied
with a march of thirty miles, broke away from the rest, and made an
unwarrantable assault on our two Baloch mares—beautiful gazelle-eyed,
gentle creatures—as they quietly stood, with saddles and bridles
unremoved, waiting their turn to be picketed. There was immediately a
grand row; the mares kicking and squealing desperately, and the _yábús_
rearing and roaring as the horses of this country only can. A dozen men
rushed to the rescue from all directions, with shouts, threats, and
imprecations. In two minutes all four bolted out of camp, and tore wildly
out of sight into the jangal.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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