Kandahar—Afghan cookery—Visit to a gold-mine—Process of extraction—Antique porphyry bowl—City of Kandahar—Mausoleum of Ahmad Sháh—Discontent of the inhabitants—Oppression of the Government—Pyrotechnical display—Travellers’ notes—The Saggid’s experience—Departure—Sardár Núr Muhammad Khán—Kandahar to Ballakhan 133-166 CHAPTER VI. Salt-pits—The Saggid on the English press—Búst—Ancient ruins—The Argandáb—Extensive jangal—Hazárjuft—Afghan stolidity—The Helmand—Khanishín—Abdullah Khán—Colonel Táj Muhammad 167-202 CHAPTER VII. Rúdbár—The Garmsel—Ján Beg—Change of post-route—The plain of Sistan—An Afghan welcome—Sardár Ibráhím Khán, the murderer of Dr Forbes—Sardár Ahmad Khán and Mardán Khán—Sharíf Khán—A primitive ferry—Nasírabad—Windmills 203-236 CHAPTER VIII. Meeting with Sir F. Goldsmid—Banjár—Ruins of Pesháwarán—History of Sistan—Its limits—Watershed—Language 237-271 CHAPTER IX. Kol Márút—Mythical inscription—Khyrabad—Lásh—News of Lord Mayo’s death—Calá Koh—Singular acoustic phenomenon—Duroh—Husenabad—The Sarbesha plateau—Birjand—Trade and products—District of Gháyn—Historical sketch 272-308 CHAPTER X. Birjand to Ghíbk—Depopulation of inhabitants—Sihdih—Persian rights of perquisite—Gháyn—The Hájí’s advice—Change of route—A noisy dispute—Precautions against the Turkmans—Dashtí Pyáz—A harmless fright—Bijistan—Widespread suffering—Persian veracity—Persian cruelty 309-357 CHAPTER XI. Mashhad—Procession through the city—Interviews with the Prince-Governor—Gratifying reception—Description of the city—Its industry and trade—Plain of Mashhad—District of Nishabor—Untrustworthiness of Persians—Sabzwár—An old institution—Pilgrims—Motley spectacle—Shahrúd—An old acquaintance 358-397 CHAPTER XII. Treatment of Persian soldiers—Lásjird—Our Mirakhor—His _savoir faire_—The “Portals of delight”—Tehran—Destitution of the inhabitants—Arrangements for return—Shukrullah Beg—A retrospect—Interview with the Governor of Kirmánshah—Effects of the famine—Frightful scenes—Hamadán—Kangawár—Besitun—Kirmánshah 398-439 CHAPTER XIII.