“No,” was the answer. “Before they retired they wanted to set fire to the stores, but the people implored them to spare the buildings and undertook to bring out the stores so that they might be destroyed. While this work was in progress report came that the Japanese were at hand and the Russians fled, leaving behind many things, including winter clothing and ammunition.” “How long was the column that passed through here after the passage of the Yalu?” “The head of the retreating army entered the town at four o’clock in the afternoon and marched without a break until three o’clock on the following afternoon. A few hundred stayed behind to destroy the stores but went away very quickly.” From the war we passed to the history of the city. “Its records go back two thousand years,” said the Governor. “In those days the country hereabout formed part of Korea, as many of the names indicate. There is a tradition that Feng-hoang-cheng once sheltered a Chinese Emperor, but it is only a tradition. If you go into the hills, however, you will find many tablets of stone recording the visits of men famous in letters and in war. The country is very beautiful though it contains few things that would interest the archæologist beyond the traces of the willow palisade.” I spoke of the condition of the people. “They are very poor and very ignorant,” replied Chang-shi-lam. “Few of them would know what that is”--taking up a box of matches from the table--“and they would not know what to do with these”--pointing to the cigarettes and cigars. “Beyond tilling the ground they have no industries, unless you take into account the culture of wild silk. When I was Governor here twenty years ago I encouraged the people to go into the hills and cultivate the ‘wild’ silk. It is now worth from twenty to thirty thousand pounds a year, and brings us into trading relations with the port of Antung.” “And your people,” I asked, “are they well-behaved? Have you many offenders to receive the punishment written on the tablets?” The answer may appear strange, yet it reveals the attitude of the Chinese toward Western civilisation, and shows their supreme contempt for our commercial ideals. The Chinese recognise four grades in the social scale--scholars, farmers, labourers and merchants, and it was in this order that the Governor spoke of the conduct of the people. “Our farmers give no trouble; they are content with tilling the soil and reaping the harvest. The labourers have employment, and are satisfied with little. We have some small traders and shopkeepers, but we have few serious offences to punish.”