Galicia, the Switzerland of SpainMeakin, Annette M. B.
History
Galicia, the Switzerland of Spain
Meakin, Annette M. B.
Galicia (Spain : Region)
Mateo did not erect the _Pórtico de Gloria_ until after he had completed
the so-called “Palace of Gelmirez” adjoining the cathedral, and also the
little church which has been erroneously called “_la Catedral Vieja_”
(the old cathedral). In both of these there is contemporary sculpture of
great interest and merit. Underneath the principal entrance to the
cathedral, and below the flight of steps by which the principal entrance
is reached, there is another entrance in the western wall, that of the
little church, or crypt, beneath the _Pórtico de Gloria_, which is now
called the chapel of St. Joseph. An eighteenth-century circular arch,
broken by a coat of arms, forms the head of the doorway, on either side
of which, on pedestals, stand the figures of two knights in armour work
of the fifteenth century. As soon as we have entered we perceive that
the little church and the portico above are the work of the same
architect, and, consequently, of the same period.
On St. Joseph’s Day this little church stands open from early morning
till late at night, and on the Eve of St. Joseph’s Day it is also open;
but throughout the rest of the year travellers invariably find it
closed. Even now it is very seldom visited by travellers as in the days
of Street, who discovered its existence by a mere accident.
On entering the door the visitor confronts a relief figure, somewhat
under life size, of St. James the Less, the garments of which are highly
coloured, red and blue. St. James holds in his hand a scroll on which
his name is written. In front of the statue is a very ancient baptismal
font with a thick stem. Sanchez calls this statue Byzantine, but some
think it to be Mateo’s work. Opposite the entrance, at the end of a
modern passage, about three yards in length, is a stout clustered pier
(A) from which spring three arches, one to the north, one to the south,
and one to the east; the first two give entrance as it were to twin
naves leading to the high altar, the third arch joins the clustered pier
(A) to another and yet more robust clustered pier (B), an elephantine
one, in fact, which in its turn also throws out three arches to north,
south, and east. A third and smaller clustered pier (C) is joined to the
second (B) by the last mentioned arch. An aisle running round the third
clustered pier forms a
[Illustration: SCULPTURED CAPITALS EXACTLY BENEATH THE CENTRAL ARCH OF
THE PORTICO DE GLORIA IN SANTIAGO CATHEDRAL
PHOTO. BY VARELA]
[Illustration: THE PALACE OF GELMIREZ, SANTIAGO
PHOTO. BY VARELA]
circular apse in which are the chief altar, and an altar to the Virgin
and to St. James on either side.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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