Galicia, the Switzerland of SpainMeakin, Annette M. B.
History
Galicia, the Switzerland of Spain
Meakin, Annette M. B.
Galicia (Spain : Region)
The form of the little church is that of a Latin cross; but the three
stout piers, A, B, and C, taking up so much room that, being planted in
a line with one another in the centre, they prevent the church from
having any central nave; they give it instead a couple of twin naves,
and make it look like two churches. Street remarked with regard to this
church that its arrangement was very peculiar. The fact of the matter
is, that Mateo had to build strong and lasting foundations for his
_portico_ to rest on; and the crypt church had to be adapted to them as
best it might. From the clustered pier (C) springs the arches which form
a vaulting to the aisle which encircles it, tores spring out over the
aisle like branches from a weeping ash. The inner side of the arches are
decorated with sculpture from the hand of Mateo, as also are the
capitals of the shafts which adorn the clustered piers. The capitals
round the central pier (B) are marvellously beautiful, and those round
the outer walls of the edifice are every one of them worthy of careful
inspection. It is so dark that without good artificial light the work
cannot be satisfactorily examined, and even with a good light a couple
of hours are required to see all properly.
The vaulting of the inner sides of the arches has large rosettes to join
the tores together, but the most remarkable of all the rosettes are
those which line the inner side of the arches over the twin naves. Never
have I seen such a variety of stone flowers in so small a space. The
accompanying photograph taken by limelight will give my readers only a
slight idea of these wonderful rows of flowers plucked from the stalks,
but the pen here is helpless. We have nothing like this in England; our
ball-flower, our four-leaved flower, our trefoil are hideous in
comparison. The photograph, though it only shows a part of one wall,
shows twelve flowers, every one different, every one perfected with
scrupulous care.
Now let us turn to the capitals; the variety of foliage they represent
is simply endless. They are remarkable for the energy, the vigour of
their design. Here on a side capital is a man up in a vine, cutting down
the grapes with a crescent-shaped sickle: there are the real vine-leaves
of Galicia, and the sickle in the man’s hand is the very one still used
by the Gallegan peasants. On another side of the same capital are two
persons with large bunches of grapes at their feet. On another is a man
grasping a wild beast by the throat; the man’s head, which has gone,
should form a corner of the capital. But perhaps the most interesting
capital of all is that with the two maidens gracefully dancing with
raised arms an old Spanish dance. Some have thought this represented the
daughter of Herodias, and that subject has been depicted on a capital;
there is one in the Toulouse Museum,[171] but others believe it to be a
scene taken from the life of the day. That very kind of dancing still
takes place on the village greens of Galicia.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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