Galicia, the Switzerland of SpainMeakin, Annette M. B.
History
Galicia, the Switzerland of Spain
Meakin, Annette M. B.
Galicia (Spain : Region)
In a niche over the chief altar is a very old stone image, supposed to
have belonged to the original church built over the body of St. James.
The two slender marble shafts to the left and right of the niche have
capitals with Byzantine sculpture; their style is simple and elegant,
and quite distinct from any of the other work. On either side of these
plain shafts are a couple of shafts covered with carving in spiral
bands; ugly modern capitals replace their original ones, but the
pedestals are intact and worthy of note. Some think these four shafts
are among the earliest sculptures in Galicia, and date from the end of
the tenth or beginning of the eleventh century. The frontal of the altar
is covered with a geometrical design, a kind of diaper pattern; some of
its original red and gold colouring is still preserved. The design
consists of a red braid with dots (pearls and a gold border arranged
geometrically on a white background), and joined by stone rosettes with
gold centres. It has been suggested that this altar is a sculptured
sarcophagus adapted, but it is rather too deep for a sarcophagus.
The so-called Palace of Gelmirez was not built till the end of the
twelfth century, or perhaps the beginning of the thirteenth, but the
style of its architecture is the same as that of Mateo’s school. It is
built on to the cathedral to the right of the western façade. We entered
it, by special permit, by way of the modern archiepiscopal library, and
descended to the _capilla de Gelmirez_. The banded imposts on which the
arches and early Gothic vaulting of this chapel rest are ornamented with
remarkable sculpture, quite different from any we have noticed in the
cathedral. Musicians with various quaint instruments are represented as
singing the praises of the Most High: angels, birds, and rosettes adorn
the groined vaults. In the adjoining refectory, separated from the
chapel by a huge pier, the sculptures represent scenes from the everyday
life of Santiago in the twelfth century. Here a Gallegan lady is seated
at dinner with a young girl on either side of her: a servant stands
close by with a dish of eatables in her hand. We see people carrying all
manner of viands, bread, fruits, etc. As Sanchez has remarked, this must
be the refectory, it could be nothing else with so many eatables about.
All the faces wear a look of placid contentment, which centuries have
not been able to obliterate. The musical instruments we see in the
capilla are supposed to be representations of the ones that were used by
the minstrels of the twelfth century. They are quite different from
those of the four-and-twenty elders in the _Pórtico de Gloria_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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