Galicia, the Switzerland of SpainMeakin, Annette M. B.
History
Galicia, the Switzerland of Spain
Meakin, Annette M. B.
Galicia (Spain : Region)
A mural painting of “The Last Judgment” covers part of the wall, and two
youthful portraits of Ferdinand and Isabella are placed on either side
of the altar. The whole interior of this portico was once covered with
frescoes, but a thick covering of whitewash has destroyed the greater
part of them. The graceful railing of wrought iron which encloses the
altar is the work of Master Guillen, the clever artist of whom we have
already spoken; its design is Gothic. The bas-reliefs of the altar,
divided into seven niches, are interesting, but the painting above is of
no value. The framed placard suspended from the railing, which is seen
in my photograph, is an announcement that certain indulgences will be
granted to those of the faithful who visit the hospital chapel, and
thither we will now repair.
On our way we will take a look at the four _patios_, or, rather,
cloisters which the four quadrangles of the hospital enclose. These
cloisters, as well as the chapel, were designed by Enrique Egas, the
famous architect of the beautiful _Colegio de Santa Cruz_ in Toledo
which was completed in 1514. Villa-Amil, quoting Cean Bermúdez, calls
Egas “one of the best architects of Spain.”[175] The first one, to our
left, is the south-western cloister, a precious jewel of the Renaissance
style. We note its slender columns, each cut from a single block, its
elegant pointed Gothic arches supporting the stone galleries, its coats
of arms, its curiously sculptured corbels, and the wonderful and weird
gargoyles springing forth as if alive from its cornices, each
representing the head, shoulders, and two front feet of a different
animal--a bear here, a fox there, and so on. And, last but not least, we
admire the doorways, with their very original _plateresque_
(_conopiada_) tracery, the most striking of these being the doorway at
the foot of the steps leading to the _Sala de San Louis_, of which I was
fortunate in securing a photograph. In the centre of this cloister is a
fountain whose water flows through extraordinary gargoyles, representing
fantastic animals, into the large basin below; some of these gargoyles
have human faces. The capitals in this cloister are really _plateresque_
in style, though their resemblance to those in the cathedral suggest
that their sculptor must have had Mateo’s work in his mind’s eye. This
is by far the most beautiful of the four cloisters.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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