Part of the original cloister of the monastery is still standing, the northern front. Nine delicate and richly sculptured Romanesque arches and two keystones of the vaulting are still in their place; they rest upon piers ornamented with pairs of slender columns whose capitals are decorated with sculptured foliage, very full and natural, and every one different. The bases of the columns rest upon plinths. This remnant of the cloister is considered to be one of the most perfect bits of mediæval architecture in Galicia. The rest of it is modern, and dates from about the end of the eighteenth century. In the north-east angle is a fine granite sarcophagus of another prior, whose recumbent statue in full sacerdotal robes has both hands holding a book upon his breast; it dates from the year 1368. The monastery, which was entirely rebuilt in the eighteenth century, is now the home of the parish priest, as the church is now the parish church of Sar. The Churrigueresque belfry was put up when the original façade of the church was spoiled by the addition of the elliptical arches. My guide pointed out to me two slender columns, evidently part of the old cloister, which are now placed on either side of the rectory door. He also showed me, in the church, an old wooden bench, eaten with age, with the Arms of the Inquisition stamped upon it, a cross with a palm leaf on its right and a sword on its left. A hospital, chiefly for canons afflicted with elephantiasis, _Hospital de San Lazaro_, was founded in connection with this monastery in 1149, and had dwelling-houses attached to it, _sustentari possint elefantiosi canonici_.[178] The prior of Sar was expected to take the inmates of this hospital under his spiritual care. There is in Santiago to this day a special hospital for that class of disease, and it attracts patients from all parts of the province. I have heard it remarked that on this account visitors should be careful in their selection of inns and boarding-houses. CHAPTER XIII LA CORUÑA Sir John Moore--The province of Coruña--The town of Coruña--By sea to Coruña--Our steamer--The other passengers--A dangerous harbour--Fear of stowaways--Glass-covered galleries--Beggars--The Customs--No fireplaces--Our drive to the ramparts--The Lion and the Unicorn--A British hero--Borrow and the tomb of Sir John Moore--The gardens of San Carlos--Moore’s lack of confidence in himself--His reputation as a general--Wellington’s opinion of him--“The Burial of Sir John Moore”--Situation of Coruña--The cemetery--The tower of Hercules--Originally erected by Phœnicians--Its outer staircase--Sir Francis Drake--A Spanish heroine--In honour of Maria Pita--The chief industry--An ice factory--Sardines--Corpulence of Spanish ladies--Chocolate factories--How the poor live--A home for the aged--Tobacco factories--The streets of Coruña--A fashionable summer resort--One of the best harbours in Europe