Galicia, the Switzerland of SpainMeakin, Annette M. B.
History
Galicia, the Switzerland of Spain
Meakin, Annette M. B.
Galicia (Spain : Region)
The first church we visited was that of _Santa Maria a Nova_, which is
the oldest church in Noya, and dates from the year 1327. Its cemetery
contains many interesting horizontal gravestones, on which are cut the
insignia of the office of the persons buried beneath them. On one we
found a stone-mason’s hammer.
On the outer side of the right wall are three sarcophagi in arched
recesses. The inscription on one is Era MCCC, which is equivalent to
A.D. 1272; these are thought to have belonged to an earlier church, for
the present one was completely rebuilt in the fourteenth century. I
noticed one sarcophagus that rested on two stone lions, and had
represented on its sides a bridge, and fish swimming beneath the name of
the person buried there. In front of the church, in the little
graveyard, is a sarcophagus with the recumbent effigy of a warrior with
his sword by his side; he wears a tall fur-brimmed hat and a kind of
kilt which is a curious example of the costume of his day.
Over the window beneath the three-arched portico of the church is a
coloured statue of the Virgin, and the Adoration of the Magi, into which
the archbishop Berigel, who built the church, is introduced. One of the
kings is represented as an Ethiopian with black skin and rolling eyes;
two angels are waving incense; their garments are bordered with gold,
and the whole group is very Byzantine. To the right of the entrance is a
dedicatory inscription and the name of the archbishop who built the
church.
Inside the church there are two other sarcophagi with the effigies of
rich Noya merchants and inscriptions with their names and dates.
The Sunday before Easter is a solemn day in Spain, and although the
market in the morning was not interfered with, Noya dressed itself in
sombre hues in the afternoon, and a solemn procession passed with music
beneath our balcony at 4 p.m. We looked out and saw four men supporting
on their shoulders a platform on which was a chair and the seated figure
of a naked Christ, life size, and wearing a crown of thorns from which
drops of blood were represented as streaming. Over the shoulders of
this ghastly figure was a crimson velvet mantle bordered with gold; the
hands were tied together with a cord. Another platform followed bearing
a standing figure of the Virgin, also life size; her skirt was of
plum-coloured velvet, and the velvet shawl which covered her head and
shoulders was of violet bordered with gold. A great crowd of people
followed, all very silent and subdued. Many of the women wore black or
grey handkerchiefs over their heads.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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