Galicia, the Switzerland of SpainMeakin, Annette M. B.
History
Galicia, the Switzerland of Spain
Meakin, Annette M. B.
Galicia (Spain : Region)
Leaving Combarro, we now mounted the hill on which stood the church and
Benedictine monastery of San Juan de Poyo; the church with its two naves
and its two towers dates only from the eighteenth century, but the
cloister with its arcade dates from the sixteenth. Here we saw the stone
sarcophagus of Santa Tramunda which had recently been discovered in the
neighbouring hermitage of San Martin. On the lid of the sarcophagus was
an ancient form of the cross, rarely seen after the sixth century;
behind the sarcophagus was a full size painting of Santa Tramunda, with
her name and the date 1792. There is a tradition that she was captured
by Mohammedans, but, escaping from their clutches, was miraculously
enabled to walk home over the sea, without being drowned. The monks who
now inhabit the cloister are a begging Order, _de la Merced_, founded by
San Pedro Nolasco for the ransoming of captives; they have not been
there long. At the appointed hour they gathered before the altar and
sang with candles in their hands; they were all dressed in white with
black leather girdles, and the whole performance was interesting. At the
close they filed out at the doors to right and left of the altar. These
monks have restored the church with their own private funds; it is a
handsome granite edifice. The two Padres from Solesme, sent by the Pope
Leo X. to instruct the monks of Spain in the art of singing Gregorian
music, had just left San Poyo, and so it was with special interest that
we listened to their rendering of the hymn composed by their founder,
San Pedro Nolasco. There is still a handsome carved wood choir in the
back of the church; the cloister too, with its groined vaulting, is well
worth inspection.
In front of the church there is a terrace commanding an exquisite view
over the Ria de Pontevedra, with the island of Tumbo in the distance,
and Marin away on the opposite side of the water.
In the old days, before the Jews were expelled from Spain, Pontevedra
had, like other towns, its Jewish quarter--it was called _Lampas dos
Judeus_ (_lampas_, burying-place). At the end of the street was a space
called _Picota d’os Judeus_, where Jewish delinquents were publicly
punished; Christians were castigated on the spot now covered by the
Capilla de la Peregrina, an edifice of the eighteenth century. Several
of the houses that were inhabited by wealthy Jews are still standing.
Those Jews who remained in Spain became Christians. Señor Sampedro told
me he had talked with an old man of ninety, who said he remembered
seeing on the wall of the old church a list of the Jewish families into
which the Christians were not allowed to marry.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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