Galicia, the Switzerland of SpainMeakin, Annette M. B.
History
Galicia, the Switzerland of Spain
Meakin, Annette M. B.
Galicia (Spain : Region)
The old town mansion of the Sotomayor family is still preserved in
Pontevedra, and their castle, the _Castillo de Mos_, is the only
remaining example of a mediæval castle in Galicia: the latter is now the
summer residence of the Marquis de la Viga de Armijo. We drove to it
from Pontevedra in about two and a half hours, through beautiful and
historic country. The bridge, _Puente de San Payo_, by which we crossed
the river Verdugo, has given its name to the battlefield where Marshal
Ney, at the head of seven thousand French troops, was utterly routed on
7th June 1809, by a force composed of rude undisciplined Gallegan
peasants under the command of Noroña, and backed by some English
marines. The peasants fought with anything that could be used as a
weapon; in place of guns, they made rough catapults out of the trunks of
oak trees, and formed a kind of battery under the direction of Colonel
M’Kinley. Children still find skulls in this battlefield and in the
surrounding country, and bring them in to Pontevedra as curios.
The vines that we passed on the drive were trained, not over bamboos,
but over rough granite columns, often nearly six feet in height; the
hills were terraced with verdant steps as before, and there was an
absence of all flatness and monotony; even the hedges round the gardens
had changed to granite, so plentiful was that material. The people find
it easier and cheaper to wall their fields and gardens with blocks of
granite than to plant hedges. We passed stretches of land covered with
the canary-coloured blossom of cabbages, others brilliant with some
purple flower, others, again, with tall green grass mingled with
hyacinths. On all sides the horizon was bounded by distant mountain
peaks of a hazy blue, and the eye was free to travel unhindered over
many a mile of cultivated hills and valleys. Here and there amongst the
granite hedges would be a real English hedge of blackberries with
familiar wild flowers in the grass below. The kilometres were marked by
the quaintest of pointed milestones, which looked as if their proper
place was a cemetery. In some of the ploughed patches, women with red
handkerchiefs over their heads, and legs bare nearly to the knee, were
busy sowing seed in the freshly ploughed furrows. The cottages were all
of sparkling granite, and as solid in their build as if they had been
cathedrals; in many a cottage garden we saw a lemon tree full of yellow
fruit; presently we crossed the railway line, and near it a plantation
of bamboos. Then a granite quarry came in view; a second time we crossed
the railway and then came the river, its banks blazing with mica dust.
Then came a village with a granite church and a schoolhouse; the road
itself has been hewn out of granite rocks; boulders covered with moss
and with ferns in their crannies formed the sides of the road; now we
had reached the top of a hill covered with chestnut trees, whose bright
green foliage was lit up by the powerful sun, and from this point of
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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