Galicia, the Switzerland of SpainMeakin, Annette M. B.
History
Galicia, the Switzerland of Spain
Meakin, Annette M. B.
Galicia (Spain : Region)
We entered the Cathedral by the north door, after admiring the toral
archivolt and triple columns of the door leading to the Capilla de San
Juan, with its statues of St. Peter and St. Paul. The first sight that
attracted our attention was the handsome sarcophagus, covered with stone
relief, of Bishop Vasco Perez Marino, who, according to one account,
brought the crucifix, which Orense counts as one of her greatest
treasures, from Cape Finisterre, somewhere between 1333 and 1343. The
crucifix itself, we found in a chapel on the opposite side of the
transept nave. Villa-Amil says this could hardly be the Finisterre
Christ, because there exists documentary evidence that during the
sixteenth century both the Christs were objects of adoration at the same
time. Molina describes them both, and says that the Christ at Orense is
one of those that were made by Nicodemus. (There are two others in
Spain, one at Burgos and another at Arenas.) Bishop Juan Muñoz de la
Cueva wrote of this crucifix in 1727 that the sight of it filled the
hardest of sinners with confusion and contrition, and attracted the
devotion even of foreign kings and pilgrims. Its hair, which is black
and long, and its nails, are said to be human. I remember seeing the
Christ at Burgos laid out on the pavement in the nave of the Cathedral
on Good Friday that the faithful might kneel before it and kiss its
feet, and I was informed at the time that it was covered with human
skin. The figure of Christ in both cases is life-size. Villa-Amil
believes that the Christ at Orense is of a later date by two centuries
than Bishop Marino, and he adds that in the fifteenth and sixteenth
centuries the worship of crucifixes was particularly fervid. The Popes
granted special Indulgences to pilgrims who visited the Orense Christ,
and as Orense was a halting-place for pilgrims to St. James, it was
visited by most of the foreigners who came on that pilgrimage. The
Christ is made of wood, and tightly covered by several layers of
flesh-coloured cloth, which looks like human skin; the feet and arms are
so constructed as to be easily moved. Pilgrims stick their fingers into
the body, and are amazed to find that an impression is made just as
would be the case with a human body. Señor Benito F. Alonso, who is a
native of Orense, has carefully examined this Christ, and gives his
readers a practical explanation of all that for so long appeared so
miraculous with regard to it.[273]
We next visited the cloister next to the _Sala Capitular_, and here our
attention was drawn to some very quaint sculpture upon the old capitals:
on one of them was the figure of a horse, and on others there were
Biblical groups which must be among the earliest work in the Cathedral.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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