Galicia, the Switzerland of SpainMeakin, Annette M. B.
History
Galicia, the Switzerland of Spain
Meakin, Annette M. B.
Galicia (Spain : Region)
Molina has something to say about the hot springs at Orense: “In the
middle of Orense, hot springs bubble up with as great a noise of boiling
as if they were heated from below by a great furnace. The water is so
hot that you cannot put your finger into it even for a minute: you can
cook fish in it. The women wash their linen there, and make every use of
the hot water that they would make of it in their own houses.” The
ground is so warm round these springs that
[Illustration: APSE OF THE PARISH CHURCH AT ALLARIZ, ORENSE]
[Illustration: FAÇADE OF THE CHURCH OF EL MOSTEIRO]
[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO ORENSE CATHEDRAL]
frost and snow are never seen near them even when all the rest of the
town is covered with a white carpet.
The Cathedral of Orense, dedicated to St. Martin of Tours, stands on the
spot where Carriarico, King of the Sueves, erected a church in the ninth
century. The present edifice was erected by Bishop Lorenzo in the first
half of the thirteenth century. Since then it has undergone restoration
at various periods, with the result that the form of its exterior is
somewhat irregular. It is in the Gothic style, and its naves, transept,
and apse are remarkable for their elegant simplicity. The lantern tower
was restored as recently as the close of the nineteenth century. A
narrow street, the _Calle de las Tiendas_, now runs in front of the
principal entrance, which once had a fine flight of steps leading up to
it. Like so many of the churches in Galicia, this Cathedral was planned
and begun in the Romanesque style, though it was eventually finished in
the Gothic. The lantern is notable, as Lamperez has pointed out, as an
example of the amalgamation of the Mohammedan system of
vaulting--without a keystone--and the Christian with one.
Like the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, that of Orense also
possesses a _Pórtico de Gloria_, but this is, alas! nothing but a poor
imitation of Mateo’s masterpiece, executed in the thirteenth and
fourteenth centuries; and to one who has carefully studied Mateo’s work
the copy at Orense seems nothing but a painful caricature. The people of
Orense call it _El Paraiso_. The cloister was begun in the fifteenth
century, and, judging from the small part of it still intact, it must
have been a beautiful example of Gothic work. A Romanesque gate led to
the cloister; the few of its capitals remaining show some interesting
sculpture.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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