CHURCH OF AQUASANTAS 294 APSE OF THE CHURCH OF EL MOSTEIRO 294 APSE OF A CHURCH NEAR ORENSE 296 CONVENTUAL CHURCH OF THE MONASTERY OF OSERA 296 PART OF THE APSE OF THE CHURCH OF AQUASANTAS 296 THE MARKET-PLACE, LUGO 312 CHILDREN PLAYING HIDE-AND-SEEK AMONG THE COFFINS EXPOSED FOR SALE IN A STREET OF SANTIAGO 312 ROMANESQUE SIDE ENTRANCE TO CHURCH OF TIOBRE, BETANZOS 312 TOMB OF ANDRADA, BETANZOS 312 THE MONASTERY OF OSERA, ORENSE 321 CLOISTERS IN THE MONASTERY OF OSERA, TWO PICTURES 321 CLOISTER IN THE COLEGIATA DE JUNQUERA DE AMBIA 321 CLOISTER IN THE MONASTERY OF CELANOVA 329 SANTA COMBA DE BANDE 332 HORSESHOE ARCH IN SANTA COMBA DE BANDE 332 ORATORY OF SAN MIGUEL IN GARDEN OF CELANOVA MONASTERY 332 MONASTERY AND CHURCH OF CELANOVA 332 THE RIVER CABE 335 MY GUIDE LEADING ME UP TO THE MONASTERY OF SAN ESTEVAN 335 THE BISHOP’S CLOISTER, MONASTERY OF SAN ESTEVAN, ORENSE 338 ROCK-HEWN CHAPEL IN THE MONASTERY OF SAN PEDRO DE ROCAS 340 VESTIBULE OF THE ROCK CHAPELS OF SAN PEDRO DE ROCAS 340 PRIMITIVE MAIZE BARN IN VILLAGE NEAR OSERA 345 MOUNTAIN SLOPE CULTIVATED IN STEPS OR TERRACES, ORENSE 345 [Illustration: MAP OF GALICIA] GALICIA CHAPTER I ANCIENT GALICIA Ancient Galicia--Never conquered by the Moors--The cradle of Spanish nobility--A goal for pilgrims--Modern writers on Galicia--A rich literature--National traditions--Martial genius--No Basques--Iberian words--Ligurians in Spain--Barrows and tumuli--Druidical stones--Celtic Spain--Derivation of “Galicia”--Scotch and Irish traditions--Julius Cæsar--Phœnician colonies--The Cassiterides--Plato’s theory--Iron implements--Quintus Fabius--Brutus in Galicia--The theatre of Cæsar’s battles--The Roman Legions--The most ancient of all the Spanish kingdoms