The death of a fat pig is as great an event in Spanish families, who
generally fatten up one, as the birth of a baby; nor can the fact be
kept secret, so audible is his announcement. It is considered a delicate
attention on the part of the proprietor to celebrate the auspicious
event by sending a portion of the chitterlings to intimate friends. The
Spaniard’s proudest boast is that his blood is pure, that he is not
descended from pork-eschewing Jew or Moor--a fact which the pig genus,
could it reason, would deeply deplore. The Spaniard doubtless has been
so great a consumer of pig, from grounds religious, as well as
gastronomic. The eating or not eating the flesh of an animal deemed
unclean by the impure infidel, became a test of orthodoxy, and at once
of correct faith as well as of good taste; and good bacon, as has been
just observed, is wedded to sound doctrine and St. Augustine. The
Spanish name _Tocino_ is derived from the Arabic _Tachim_, which
signifies fat.
[Sidenote: PORK OF MONTANCHES.]
The Spaniards however, although tremendous consumers of the pig, whether
in the salted form or in the skin, have to the full the Oriental
abhorrence to the unclean animal in the _abstract_. _Muy puerco_ is
their last expression for all that is most dirty, nasty, or disgusting.
_Muy cochina_ never is forgiven, if applied to woman, as it is
equivalent to the Italian _Vacca_, and to the canine feminine compliment
bandied among our fair sex at Billingsgate; nor does the epithet imply
moral purity or chastity; indeed in Castilian euphuism the unclean
animal was never to be named except in a periphrasis, or with an
apology, which is a singular remnant of the Moorish influence on Spanish
manners. _Haluf_ or swine is still the Moslem’s most obnoxious term for
the Christians, and is applied to this day by the ungrateful Algerines
to their French bakers and benefactors, nay even to the “_illustre
Bugeaud_.”
The capital of the Estremenian pig-districts is _Montanches_--mons
anguis--and doubtless the hilly spot where the Duke of Arcos fed and
cured “ces petits jambons vermeils,” which the Duc de St. Simon ate and
admired so much; “ces jambons ont un parfum si admirable, un goût si
relevé et si vivifiant, qu’on en est surpris: il est impossible de rien
manger si exquis.” His Grace of Arcos used to shut up the pigs in places
abounding in vipers, on which they fattened. Neither the pigs, dukes,
nor their toadeaters seem to have been poisoned by these exquisite
vipers. According to Jonas Barrington, the finest Irish pigs were those
that fed on dead rebels: one Papist porker, the Enniscorthy boar, was
sent as a show, for having eaten a Protestant parson: he was put to
death and dishonoured by not being made bacon of.
[Sidenote: A MEAT OMELETTE.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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