Naturalists have remarked that the rattlesnakes in America retire before
their consuming enemy, the pig, who is thus the _gastador_ or pioneer of
the new world’s civilization, just as Pizarro, who was suckled by a sow,
and tended swine in his youth, was its conqueror. Be that as it may,
Montanches is illustrious in pork, in which the burgesses go the whole
hog, whether in the rich red sausage, the _chorizo_, or in the savoury
piquant _embuchados_, which are akin to the _mortadelle_ of Bologna,
only less hard, and usually boiled before eating, though good also raw;
they consist of the choice bits of the pig seasoned with condiments,
with which, as if by retribution, the paunch of the voracious animal is
filled; the ruling passion strong in death. We strongly recommend _Juan
Valiente_, who recently was the alcalde of the town, to the lover of
delicious hams; each _jamon_ averages about 12 lb.; they are sold at the
rate of 7½ _reales_, about 18_d._; for the _libra carnicera_, which
weighs 32 of our ounces. The duties in England are now very trifling; we
have for many years had an annual supply of these delicacies, through
the favour of a kind friend at the _Puerto_. The fat of these _jamones_,
whence our word ham and gammon, when they are boiled, looks like melted
topazes, and the flavour defies language, although we have dined on one
this very day, in order to secure accuracy and undeniable prose, like
Lope de Vega, who, according to his biographer, Dr. Montalvan, never
could write poetry unless inspired by a rasher; “Toda es cosa vil,” said
he, “á donde falta un _pernil_” (in which word we recognize the precise
_perna_, whereby Horace was restored):--
Therefore all writing is a sham,
Where there is wanting Spanish ham.
Those of Gallicia and Catalonia are also celebrated, but are not to be
compared for a moment with those of Montanches, which are fit to set
before an emperor. Their only rivals are the sweet hams of the
_Alpujarras_, which are made at _Trevelez_, a pig-hamlet situated under
the snowy mountains on the opposite side of Granada, to which also we
have made a pilgrimage. They are called _dulces_ or sweet, because
scarcely any salt is used in the curing; the ham is placed in a weak
pickle for eight days, and is then hung up in the snow; it can only be
done at this place, where the exact temperature necessary is certain.
Those of our readers who are curious in Spanish eatables will find
excellent garbanzos, chorizos, red pepper, chocolate and Valencian
sweetmeats, &c. at Figul’s, a most worthy Catalan, whose shop is at No.
10, Woburn Buildings, St. Paneras, London; the locality is scarcely less
visited than Montanches, but the penny-post penetrates into this terra
incognita.
[Sidenote: THE GUISADO.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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