Another excellent but very difficult dish is the _pollo con arroz_, or
the chicken and rice. It is eaten in perfection in Valencia, and
therefore is often called _Pollo Valenciano_. Cut a good fowl into
pieces, wipe it clean, but do not put it into water; take a saucepan,
put in a wine-glass of fine oil, heat the oil well, put in a bit of
bread; let it fry, stirring it about with a _wooden_ spoon; when the
bread is browned take it out and throw it away: put in two cloves of
garlic, taking care that it does not burn, as, if it does, it will turn
bitter; stir the garlic till it is fried; put in the chicken, keep
stirring it about while it fries, then put in a little salt and stir
again; whenever a sound of cracking is heard, stir it again; when the
chicken is well browned or gilded, _dorado_, which will take from five
to ten minutes, _stirring constantly_, put in chopped onions, three or
four chopped red or green chilis, and stir about; if once the contents
catch the pan, the dish is spoiled; then add tomatas, divided into
quarters, and parsley; take two teacupsful of rice, mix all well up
together; add _hot_ stock enough to cover the whole over; let it boil
_once_, and then set it aside to simmer until the rice becomes tender
and done. The great art consists in having the rice turned out
granulated and separate, not in a pudding state, which is sure to be the
case if a cover be ever put over the dish, which condenses the steam.
It may be objected, that these dishes, if so curious in the cooking, are
not likely to be well done in the rude kitchens of a _venta_; but
practice makes perfect, and the whole mind and intellect of the artist
is concentrated on one object, and not frittered away by a multiplicity
of dishes, the rock on which many cooks founder, where more dinners are
sacrificed to the eye and ostentation. One dish and one thing at a time
is the golden rule of Bacon; many are the anxious moments that we have
spent over the rim of a Spanish pipkin, watching, life set on the cast,
the wizen she-mummy, whose mind, body, and spoon were absorbed in a
single mess: Well, my mother, _que tal_? what sort of a stew is it? Let
me smell and taste the _salsa_. Good, good; it promises much. _Vamos,
Señora_--go on, my lady, thy spoon once more--how, indeed, can oil,
wine, and nutritive juices amalgamate without frequent stirring? Well,
very well it is. Now again, daughter of my soul, thy fork. _Asi, asi_;
thus, thus. _Per Bacco_, by Bacchus, tender it is--may heaven repay
thee! Indeed, from this tenderness of the meat arises ease of digestion;
here, pot and fire do half the work of the poor stomach, which too often
in inns elsewhere is overtaxed, like its owner, and condemned to hard
labour and a brickbat beefsteak.
[Sidenote: SALAD.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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