Poached eggs are at all events within the grasp of the meanest culinary
capacity. They are called _Huevos estrellados_, starred eggs. When fat
bacon is wedded to them, the dish is called _Huevos con magras_; not
that _magras_ here means thin as to condition, but rather as to slicing;
and these slices, again, are positively thick ones when compared to
those triumphs of close shaving which are carved at Vauxhall. To make
this dish, with or without the bacon, take eggs; the contents of the
shell are to be emptied into a pan filled with hot oil or lard, _manteca
de puerco_, pig’s butter: it must be remembered, although Strabo
mentions as a singular fact that the Iberians made use of butter
instead of oil, that now it is just the reverse; a century ago butter
was only sold by the apothecaries, as a sort of ointment, and it used to
be iniquitous. Spaniards generally used either Irish or Flemish salted
butter, and from long habit thought fresh butter quite insipid; indeed,
they have no objection to its being a trifle or so rancid, just as some
aldermen like high venison. In the present age of progress the Queen
Christina has a fancy dairy at Madrid, where she makes a few pounds of
fresh butter, of which a small portion is or was sold, at five shillings
the pound, to foreign ambassadors for their breakfast. Recently more
attention has been paid to the dairy in the Swiss-like provinces of the
north-west. The Spaniards, like the heroes in the Iliad, seldom boil
their food (eggs excepted), at least not in water; for frying, after
all, is but boiling in oil.
Travellers should be cautioned against the captivating name of _manteca
Valenciana_. This Valencian butter is composed (for the cow has nothing
to do with it) of equal portions of garlic and hogs’ lard pounded
together in a mortar; it is then spread on bread, just as we do arsenic
to destroy vermin. It, however, agrees well with the peasants, as does
the soup of their neighbours the Catalans, which is made of bread and
garlic in equal portions fried in oil and diluted with hot water. This
mess is called _sopa de gato_, probably from making cats, not Catalans,
sick.
[Sidenote: GAZPACHO.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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