_The third zone_ is the Lusitanian, or western, which is by far the
largest, and includes the central parts of Spain and all Portugal. The
interior of this portion, and especially the provinces of the two
Castiles and La Mancha, both in the physical condition of the soil and
the moral qualities of the inhabitants, presents a very unfavourable
view of the Peninsula, as these inland steppes are burnt up by summer
suns, and are tempest and wind-rent during winter. The general absence
of trees, hedges, and enclosures exposes these wide unprotected plains
to the rage and violence of the elements: poverty-stricken mud houses,
scattered here and there in the desolate extent, afford a wretched home
to a poor, proud, and ignorant population; but these localities, which
offer in themselves neither pleasure nor profit to the stranger, contain
many sites and cities of the highest interest, which none who wish to
understand Spain can possibly pass by unnoticed. The best periods for
visiting this portion of Spain are May and June, or September and
October.
The more western districts of this Lusitanian zone are not so
disagreeable. There in the uplands the ilex and chesnut abound, while
the rich plains produce vast harvests of corn, and the vineyards
powerful red wines. The central table-land, which closely resembles the
plateau of Mexico, forms nearly one-half of the entire area of the
Peninsula. The peculiarity of the climate is its dryness; it is not,
however, unhealthy, being free from the agues and fevers which are
prevalent in the lower plains, river-swamps, and rice-grounds of parts
of Valencia and Andalucia. Rain, indeed, is so comparatively scarce on
this table-land, that the annual quantity on an average does not amount
to more than ten inches. The least quantity falls in the mountain
regions near Guadalupe, and on the high plains of Cuenca and Murcia,
where sometimes eight or nine months pass without a drop falling. The
occasional thunder-storms do but just lay the dust, since here moisture
dries up quicker even than woman’s tears. The face of the earth is
tanned, tawny, and baked into a veritable terra cotta: everything seems
dead and burnt on a funeral pile. It is all but a miracle how the
principle of life in the green herb is preserved, since the very grass
appears scorched and dead; yet when once the rains set in, vegetation
springs up, phœnix-like, from the ashes, and bursts forth in an
inconceivable luxuriance and life. The ripe seeds which have fallen on
the soil are called into existence, carpeting the desert with verdure,
gladdening the eye with flowers, and intoxicating the senses with
perfume. The thirsty chinky dry earth drinks in these genial showers,
and then rising like a giant refreshed with wine, puts forth all its
strength; and what vegetation is, where moisture is combined with great
heat, cannot even be guessed at in lands of stinted suns. The periods of
rains are the winter and spring, and when these are plentiful, all kinds
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