The geology and botany have yet to be properly investigated. In the
metal-pregnant Pyrenees rude forges of iron abound, but everything is
conducted on a small, unscientific scale, and probably after the
unchanged primitive Iberian system. Fuel is scarce, and transport of
ores on muleback expensive. The iron is at once inferior to the English
and much dearer: the tools and implements used on both sides of the
Pyrenees are at least a century behind ours; while absurd tariffs, which
prevent the importation of a cheaper and better article, retard
improvements in agriculture and manufactures, and perpetuate poverty and
ignorance among backward, half-civilised populations. The timber,
moreover, has suffered much from the usual neglect, waste, and
improvidence of the natives, who destroy more than they consume, and
never replant. The sporting in these lonely wild districts is excellent,
for where man seldom penetrates the feræ naturæ multiply: the bear is,
however, getting scarce, as a premium is placed on every head destroyed.
The grand object is the _Cabra Montanez_, or _Rupicapra_, German
Steinbock, the Bouquetin of the French, the Izard (_Ibex_, becco, bouc,
bock, buck). The fascination of this pursuit, like that of the Chamois
in Switzerland, leads to constant and even fatal accidents, as this shy
animal lurks in almost inaccessible localities, and must be stalked with
the nicest skill. The sporting on the north side is far inferior, as the
cooks of the table-d’hôtes have waged a _guerra al cuchillo_, a war to
the knife, and fork too, against even _les petits oiseaux_; but your
French _artiste_ persecutes even minnows, as all _sport_ and fair play
is scouted, and everything gives way for the pot. The Spaniards, less
mechanical and gastronomic, leave the feathered and finny tribes in
comparative peace. Accordingly the streams abound with trout, and those
which flow into the Atlantic with salmon. The lofty Pyrenees are not
only alembics of cool crystal streams, but contain, like the heart of
Sappho, sources of warm springs under a bosom of snow. The most
celebrated issue on the north side, or at least those which are the most
known and frequented, for the Spaniard is a small bather, and no great
drinker of medicinal waters. Accommodations at the baths on his side
scarcely exist, while even those in France are paltry when compared to
the spas of Germany, and dirty and indecent when contrasted with those
of England. The scenery is alpine, a jumble of mountain, precipice,
glacier, and forest, enlivened by the cataract or hurricane. The
natives, when not smugglers or _guerrilleros_, are rude, simple, and
pastoral: they are poor and picturesque, as people are who dwell in
mountains. _Plains_ which produce “bread stuffs” may be richer, but what
can a traveller or painter do with their monotonous commonplace?
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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