Many of these beds serve in remote districts, where highways and bridges
are thought to be superfluous luxuries, for the double purposes of a
river when there is water in them, and as a road when there is not.
Again, in this land of anomalies, some streams have no bridges, while
other bridges have no streams; the most remarkable of these _pontes
asinorum_ is at Coria, where the Alagon is crossed at an inconvenient,
and often dangerous ferry, while a noble bridge of five arches stands
high and dry in the meadows close by. This has arisen from the river
having quitted its old channel in some inundation; or, as Spaniards say,
_salido de su madre_, gone out from its mother, who does not seem to
know that it is out, or certainly does not care, since no steps have
ever been taken by the Corians to coax it back again under its old
arches; they call on Hercules to turn this Alpheus, and rely in the
meantime on their proverb, that all fickle, unfaithful rivers repent and
return to their legitimate beds after a thousand years, for nothing is
hurried in Spain, _Despues de anos mil, vuelve el rio a su cubil_. On
the fishing in these wandering streams we shall presently say something.
The navigation of Spanish rivers is Oriental, classical, and imperfect;
the boats, barges, and bargemen carry one back beyond the mediæval ages,
and are better calculated for artistical than commercial purposes. The
“great river,” the Guadalquivir, which was navigable in the time of the
Romans as far as Cordova, is now scarcely practicable for
sailing-vessels of a moderate size even up to Seville. Passengers,
however, have facilities afforded them by the steamers which run
backwards and forwards between this capital and Cadiz; these
conveniences, it need not be said, were introduced from England,
although the first steamer that ever paddled in waters was of Spanish
invention, and was launched at Barcelona in 1543; but the Spanish
Chancellor of the Exchequer of the time was a poor red tapist, and
opposed the whole thing, which, as usual, fell to the ground. The
steamers on the Guadalquivir are safe; indeed, in our times, the
advertisements always stated that a mass was said before starting in the
heretical contrivance, just as to this day Birmingham locomotives, when
a railway is first opened in France, are sprinkled with holy water, and
blessed by a bishop, which may be a new “wrinkle” to Mr. Hudson and the
primate of York.
[Sidenote: THE TAGUS.]
There is considerable talk in Arragon about rendering the Ebro
navigable, and it has been surveyed this year by two engineers--English
of course. The local newspapers compared the astonishment of the herns
and peasantry, created on the banks by this arrival, as second only to
that occasioned when Don Quixote and Sancho ventured near the same spot
into the enchanted bark.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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