To return, however, to sight-seeing in Spain. Lucky was the traveller
prepared even to bribe and pay, who ever in our time chanced to fall in
with a librarian who knew what books he had, or with a priest who could
tell what pictures were in his chapel; ask him for _the_ painting by
Murillo--a shoulder-shrug was his reply, or a curt “_no hay_,” “there is
none;” had you inquired for the “blessed Saint Thomas,” then he might
have pointed it out; the _subject_, not the artist, being all that was
required for the service of the church. An incurious bliss of ignorance
is no less grateful to the Spanish mind, than the _dolce far niente_ or
sweet indolent doing nothing is to the body. All that gives trouble, or
“fashes,” destroys the supreme height of felicity, which consists in
avoiding exertion. A chapter might be filled with instances, which, had
they not occurred to our humble selves, would seem caricature
inventions. The not to be able to answer the commonest question, or to
give any information as to matters of the most ordinary daily
occurrence, is so prevalent, that we at first thought it must proceed
from some fear of committal, some remnant of inquisitorial engendered
reserve, rather than from bonâ fide careless and contented ignorance.
The result, however, of much intercourse and experience arrived at, was,
that few people are more communicative than the lower classes of
Spaniards, especially to an Englishman, to whom they reveal private and
family secrets: their want of knowledge applies rather to things than to
persons.
[Sidenote: UNCERTAINTY OF SPANISH THINGS.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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