There is one class of muleteers which are but little known to European
travellers--the _Maragatos_, whose head-quarters are at _San Roman_,
near _Astorga_; they, like the Jew and gipsy, live exclusively among
their own people, preserving their primeval costume and customs, and
never marrying out of their own tribe. They are as perfectly nomad and
wandering as the Bedouins, the mule only being substituted for the
camel; their honesty and industry are proverbial. They are a sedate,
grave, dry, matter-of-fact, business-like people. Their charges are
high, but the security counterbalances, as they may be trusted with
untold gold. They are the channels of all traffic between Gallicia and
the Castiles, being seldom seen in the south or east provinces. They are
dressed in leathern jerkins, which fit tightly like a cuirass, leaving
the arms free. Their linen is coarse but white, especially the shirt
collar; a broad leather belt, in which there is a purse, is fastened
round the waist. Their breeches, like those of the Valencians, are
called _Zaraguelles_, a pure Arabic word for kilts or wide drawers, and
no burgomaster of Rembrandt is more broad-bottomed. Their legs are
encased in long brown cloth gaiters, with red garters; their hair is
generally cut close--sometimes, however, strange tufts are left. A huge,
slouching, flapping hat completes the most inconvenient of travelling
dresses, and it is too Dutch to be even picturesque; but these fashions
are as unchangeable as the laws of the Medes and Persians were; nor will
any Maragato dream of altering his costume until those dressed models of
painted wood do which strike the hours of the clock on the square of
_Astorga_: _Pedro Mato_, also, another figure _costumée_, who holds a
weathercock at the cathedral, is the observed of all observers; and, in
truth, this particular costume is, as that of Quakers used to be, a
guarantee of their tribe and respectability; thus even Cordero, the rich
Maragato deputy, appeared in Cortes in this local costume.
[Sidenote: THEIR ORIGIN.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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