The dress of the Maragata is equally peculiar: she wears, if married, a
sort of head-gear, _El Caramiello_, in the shape of a crescent, the
round part coming over the forehead, which is very Moorish, and
resembles those of the females in the basso-rilievos at Granada. Their
hair flows loosely on their shoulders, while their apron or petticoat
hangs down open before and behind, and is curiously tied at the back
with a sash, and their bodice is cut square over the bosom. At their
festivals they are covered with ornaments of long chains of coral and
metal, with crosses, relics, and medals in silver. Their earrings are
very heavy, and supported by silken threads, as among the Jewesses in
Barbary. A marriage is the grand feast; then large parties assemble, and
a president is chosen, who puts into a waiter whatever sum of money he
likes, and all invited must then give as much. The bride is enveloped in
a mantle, which she wears the whole day, and never again except on that
of her husband’s death. She does not dance at the wedding-ball. Early
next morning two roast chickens are brought to the bed-side of the happy
pair. The next evening ball is opened by the bride and her husband, to
the tune of the _gaita_, or Moorish bagpipe. Their dances are grave and
serious; such indeed is their whole character. The _Maragatos_, with
their honest, weather-beaten countenances, are seen with files of mules
all along the high road to La Coruña. They generally walk, and, like
other Spanish _arrieros_, although they sing and curse rather less, are
employed in one ceaseless shower of stones and blows at their mules.
The whole tribe assembles twice a year at Astorga, at the feasts of
Corpus and the Ascension, when they dance _El Canizo_, beginning at two
o’clock in the afternoon, and ending precisely at three. If any one not
a _Maragato_ joins, they all leave off immediately. The women never
wander from their homes, which their undomestic husbands always do. They
lead the hardworked life of the Iberian females of old, and now, as
then, are to be seen everywhere in these west provinces toiling in the
fields, early before the sun has risen, and late after it has set; and
it is most painful to behold them drudging at these unfeminine
vocations.
The origin of the _Maragatos_ has never been ascertained. Some consider
them to be a remnant of the Celtiberian, others of the Visigoths; most,
however, prefer a Bedouin, or caravan descent. It is in vain to question
these ignorant carriers as to their history or origin; for like the
gipsies, they have no traditions, and know nothing. _Arrieros_, at all
events, they are; and that word, in common with so many others relating
to the barb and carrier-caravan craft, is Arabic, and proves whence the
system and science were derived by Spaniards.
[Sidenote: TRAVELLING IN THE INTERIOR.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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