Gems in the Smithsonian InstitutionDesautels, Paul E.
History
Gems in the Smithsonian Institution
Desautels, Paul E.
Gems; Precious stones; Smithsonian Institution
The value of a pearl depends on its shape, color, orient, and size.
Pearls of highest value are white with a faint tinge of pink or yellow,
possess fine orient, are round, and are free of surface blemishes. The
grading of pearls for color requires considerable experience to detect
delicate differences. Various classification names, such as “rosée” for
delicate pink shades, are used. Fancy colored pearls are those with a
strong yellow, bronze, pink, green, blue, or black color. Grading for
shapes, which differ markedly, is easier. Spherical pearls are usually
drilled for beads; pear-shaped or drop pearls are used in earrings and
pendants; and “boutons” or button-shaped pearls, with one flat side, are
used for ear ornaments, cuff links, and rings. Irregular, baroque pearls
and tiny seed pearls are used in jewelry designs with noble metals and
perhaps other gemstones.
The world’s finest pearls, called _oriental pearls_, come from the
fisheries of the Persian Gulf. Fine pearls also are found off the coasts
of Burma, Tahiti, New Guinea, Borneo, Venezuela and western South
America, and in the Gulf of California. Fresh-water pearls of high
quality, formed in pearl mussels, are found in various rivers in Europe
and the United States, especially in rivers in the Mississippi Valley.
A method of growing _cultured pearls_ has been well developed. A
mother-of-pearl bead is inserted in the oyster as an irritant, and the
animal is replaced in the sea in a cage. When oysters so treated are
recovered after a period of three to seven years, the beads in the
harvested crop usually are found to be coated with a layer of nacre up
to almost a sixteenth of an inch thick.
The cultured pearl can be identified only by the observance—through a
drill-hole or by X-ray—of the mother-of-pearl core, which had been
inserted in the oyster. An instrument called an endoscope, devised for
rapid testing of drilled pearls, relies on a beam of strong light
carried by a hollow needle. The needle is inserted into the drill hole,
and as it passes through the center portion of a natural pearl a flash
of light, reflected through a mirror system in the needle, is observed.
CORUNDUM
(RUBY AND SAPPHIRE)
Both _ruby_ and _sapphire_, which are second only to diamond in
hardness, are of the mineral species corundum, an oxide of aluminum.
They are identical in all characteristics except color. Most corundum is
opaque, and it is mined in large quantities for use as an abrasive. In a
few places, such as Moguk in Upper Burma and in Ceylon, clear corundum
is found that is suitable for use as a gem.
Red corundum is known as ruby. Its color, caused by traces of chromium,
ranges from rose through carmine to a dark purplish red referred to as
pigeon’s blood red. Rubies of this very desirable latter color often are
called Burma rubies, and they are the most costly of all the corundum
gems.
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