FACING PAGE 2. L’Église de la Madeleine, Geneva. M. H. L. 6 3. The Last Snow on the Wooded slopes. M. H. L. 10 4. Geneva from the Arve. M. H. L. 20 5. The Bay of Meillerie. J. H. L. 26 6. Evian les Bains, Hte. Savoie. M. H. L. 34 7. The Glaciers des Bossons, Chamonix. J. H. L. 38 8. Yvoire, Hte. Savoie. M. H. L. 44 9. La Roche, Hte. Savoie. J. H. L. 50 10. The Castle of Etrembières, Hte. Savoie. J. H. L. 56 11. Nyon Castle, looking across the Lake to Mont Blanc. J. H. L. 62 12. Montenvers and Aiguilles Verte and Dru. J. H. L. 68 13. The Jura Range from Thonon, Hte. Savoie. J. H. L. 74 14. The Aiguille and Dôme du Goûter, Mont Blanc. M. H. L. 80 15. The Statue of Jean Jacques Rousseau on the Island in the Rhone, Geneva, from Hôtel des Bergues. J. H. L. 90 16. The Head of Lake Annecy, Hte. Savoie. J. H. L. 96 17. Nernier, Hte. Savoie. M. H. L. 100 18. The Chateau de Prangins. M. H. L. 110 19. A Vaudoise: Summer. M. H. L. 120 20. The Tricoteuse: Winter. M. H. L. 128 CHAPTER I OLD GENEVA Towns which expand too fast and become too prosperous tend to lose their individuality. Geneva has enjoyed that fortune, and has paid that price for it. Straddling the Rhone, where it issues from the bluest lake in the world, looking out upon green meadows and wooded hills, backed by the dark ridge of the Salève, with the ‘great white mountain’ visible in the distance, it has the advantage of an incomparable site; and it is, from a town surveyor’s point of view, well built. It has wide thoroughfares, quays, and bridges; gorgeous public monuments and well-kept public gardens; handsome theatres and museums; long rows of palatial hotels; flourishing suburbs; two railway-stations, and a casino. But all this is merely the façade--all of it quite modern; hardly any of it more than half a century old. The real historical Geneva--the little of it that remains--is hidden away in the background, where not every tourist troubles to look for it.