70. _Breaker-action--Currents._--The most conspicuous action of the sea,
as a geological agent, takes place along its margin, where the breakers
are hurled against the land. Stones and gravel are borne with more or
less intense force against the rocks, and by their constant battering
succeed eventually in undermining the cliffs, which by and by become
top-heavy, and large masses fall down and get broken up and pounded into
gravel and sand. The new wall of rock thus exposed becomes in turn
assaulted, and in course of time is undermined in like manner. The waste
of the cliffs is greatly aided by the action of frost, which loosens the
jointed rocks, and renders them an easier prey to the force of the
waves. Of course, the rapidity with which a coast-line is eaten into
depends very much upon the nature of the rocks. Where these are formed
of loose materials like sand, gravel, or clay, considerable inroads are
effected by the sea in a comparatively short time. Thus, along some
parts of the English coast, as between Flamborough Head and the mouth of
the Humber, and between the Wash and the Thames, it is estimated that
the land is wasted away at the rate of a yard per annum. Where hard
rocks form the coast-line the rate of waste is often exceedingly slow,
and centuries may elapse without any apparent change being effected.
When the rocks are of unequal hardness the coast-line becomes very
irregular, the sea carving out bays and gullies in the softer portions,
while the more durable masses stand out as capes and bold headlands. Not
unfrequently, such headlands are converted into sea-stacks and rocky
islets, as one may observe along the rockier parts of our shore-lines.
Close inshore, the bulkier débris derived from the waste of the land
often accumulates, forming beds and banks of shingle and gravel. The
finer materials are carried farther out to sea, and distributed over the
sea-floor by the action of the tide and currents. Tidal and other
currents may also have some denuding effect upon the sea-bottom, but
this can only be in comparatively shallow water. The great bulk of the
material derived from the waste of the coasts by the mechanical action
of the breakers, travels for no great distance. But the fine mud brought
down by rivers is frequently transported for vast distances before it
settles. So fine, indeed, is some of this sedimentary material, that it
may be carried in suspension by sea-currents for thousands of miles
before it sinks to the bottom.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account